Agent Nunn Advice

Elbe Philharmonic Hall

2012-01-30T08:00:00.000-08:00

Update: Construction Stopped on Elbe Philharmonic / Herzog and de Meuron

The Elbphilharmonie Hamburg is a concert hall under construction in the HafenCity quarter of Hamburg, Germany. The concert hall is designed by Herzog & de Meuron on top of an old warehouse (Kaispeicher A).^[1]^[2] It will be the highest inhabited building of Hamburg.

On 2 April 2007 the First Mayor of Hamburg Ole von Beust, Henner Mahlstedt, Hochtief Construction AG, project coordinator Hartmut Wegener, Hamburg Minister of Culture Karin von Welck and architect Pierre de Meuron were laying the foundation stone in the warehouse Kaispeicher A. In 2007, the construction was scheduled to be finished in 2010 with an estimated cost of €241 million.^[3]^[4]

In November 2008 as an endorsement to the original contract, the costs for the project were estimated at €450 million.^[5]

Source

Get Your Finances in Order

2012-01-27T08:00:00.000-08:00

Get Your Finances in Order: To-Do List

1. Develop a household budget. Instead of creating a budget of what you’d like to spend, use receipts to create a budget that reflects your actual spending habits over the last several months. This approach will factor in unexpected expenses, such as car repairs, as well as predictable costs such as rent, utility bills, and groceries.

2. Reduce your debt. Lenders generally look for a total debt load of no more than 36 percent of income. This figure includes your mortgage, which typically ranges between 25 and 28 percent of your net household income. So you need to get monthly payments on the rest of your installment debt — car loans, student loans, and revolving balances on credit cards — down to between 8 and 10 percent of your net monthly income.

3. Look for ways to save. You probably know how much you spend on rent and utilities, but little expenses add up, too. Try writing down everything you spend for one month. You’ll probably spot some great ways to save, whether it’s cutting out that morning trip to Starbucks or eating dinner at home more often.

4. Increase your income. Now’s the time to ask for a raise! If that’s not an option, you may want to consider taking on a second job to get your income at a level high enough to qualify for the home you want.

5. Save for a down payment. Designate a certain amount of money each month to put away in your savings account. Although it’s possible to get a mortgage with only 5 percent down, or even less, you can usually get a better rate if you put down a larger percentage of the total purchase. Aim for a 20 percent down payment.

6. Keep your job. While you don’t need to be in the same job forever to qualify for a home loan, having a job for less than two years may mean you have to pay a higher interest rate.

7. Establish a good credit history. Get a credit card and make payments by the due date. Do the same for all your other bills, too. Pay off the entire balance promptly.

Reprinted fromREALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag)with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Understanding Capital Gains in Real Estate

2012-01-26T08:00:00.000-08:00

Understanding Capital Gains in Real Estate

When you sell a stock, you owe taxes on your gain — the difference between what you paid for the stock and what you sold it for. The same holds true when selling a home (or a second home), but there are some special considerations.
How to Calculate Gain
In real estate, capital gains are based not on what you paid for the home, but on its adjusted cost basis. To calculate, follow these steps:

1. Purchase price: _______________________

The purchase price of the home is the sale price, not the amount of money you actually contributed at closing.

2. Total adjustments: _______________________

To calculate this, add the following:

Cost of the purchase — including transfer fees, attorney fees, and inspections, but not points you paid on your mortgage.
Cost of sale — including inspections, attorney fees, real estate commission, and money you spent to fix up your home just prior to sale.
Cost of improvements — including room additions, deck, etc. Note here that improvements do not include repairing or replacing something already there, such as putting on a new roof or buying a new furnace.

3. Your home’s adjusted cost basis: _______________________

The total of your purchase price and adjustments is the adjusted cost basis of your home.

4. Your capital gain: _______________________

Subtract the adjusted cost basis from the amount your home sells for to get your capital gain.

A Special Real Estate Exemption for Capital Gains
Since 1997, up to $250,000 in capital gains ($500,000 for a married couple) on the sale of a home is exempt from taxation if you meet the following criteria:

· You have lived in the home as your principal residence for two out of the last five years.

· You have not sold or exchanged another home during the two years preceding the sale.

· You meet what the IRS calls “unforeseen circumstances,” such as job loss, divorce, or family medical emergency.

Reprinted fromREALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag)with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Thinking of Retirement?

2012-01-25T08:00:00.000-08:00

Make the Most of It with Universal Design

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Christina Hoffmann

Published: October 19, 2011

When planning for retirement, remember yourhome is your castle. Make it work for you with universal design.

The latest "Best Places" listfrom U.S. News and World Report, "The 10 Best Places to Retire in 2012,"is out and it lists some unexpected cities. Ithaca, New York?

But it also brought to mind another topic:universal design(http://www.houselogic.com/home-improvement/planning-your-remodel/universal-design/).Here at HouseLogic, we often refer to it as ageless design(http://www.houselogic.com/blog/universal-design/ageless-design-renaming-contest/),a moniker we crowdsourced with you, our readers.

The term refers to common sense featuresyou can include in your home - smooth floors with no uneven spots, walk-inshowers, contrasting colors, and lots of light - that are helpful no matterwhat age you are.

Even better, universal design adds beautyand function(http://www.houselogic.com/photos/universal-design/universal-design-combines-beauty-function/).Take a spin through our new slideshow to see if you can spot the universaldesign features. We bet you'll be surprised that the features aren't nursinghome-like. Let us know how you do on our picture challenge!

Soif the list of Best Places to Retire has you planning a new retirement home -or if you're thinking of staying put in your current home - we heartily suggestbecoming more familiar with ageless design.

What do you think of universal design?Do the features appeal to you?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Ventless Fireplaces:

2012-01-24T08:00:00.000-08:00

What You Need to Know

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Rich Binsacca
Published: November 23, 2009

Ventless fireplaces provide a convenient,low-cost alternative to traditional fireplace options, but they aren'ttrouble-free.

Ventless fireplaces, which don't include aflue or chimney, have been sold in the U.S. since 1980. They're powered bynatural gas, propane, alcohol-based gels, and electricity. Although lessexpensive and easier to install than a traditional fireplace, ventlessfireplaces suffer from a reputation of being unsafe, unhealthy, and cheapalternatives to "the real thing."

However, modern ventless fireplace modelsare strictly regulated by federal agencies and standards groups for safeoperation in your home, making them a viable, low-cost, supplemental heatingoption compared to more expensive fireplaces. If you're considering theinstallation of a fireplace in your home, here's what you need to know about ventlessoptions.

Types of ventless fireplaces

Ventless fireplaces are typicallyfreestanding units that don't require or feature a flue or chimney to exhaustcombustion air to the outdoors, making them relatively easy to install in anyroom.

Those fueled by natural gas or propane can be positioned anywhere that a supplyline can be installed-usually against a wall or inside an existing masonryfireplace. The latest models also feature automatic ignition, a function thateliminates the need for an outside electrical circuit to spark the pilotlight-a handy feature should the electricity ever go out.

Gel-fueled units are even more versatile, as they're completely self-contained(not tethered to a supply line) and light with a match. Electric units needonly a 120-volt outlet nearby, and a dedicated circuit isn't necessary.

What does "ventless" mean?

Ventless fireplaces fueled by gas orpropane rely on indoor air for combustion, and they exhaust a low level oftheir combustion gases into the room in which they're located. A chimney orflue isn't necessary.

The risk to your health is a long-standing and on-going debate. Proponentssuggest that any emissions are negligible, and well within indoor air qualityguidelines as set by various regulatory agencies.

Essentially, these products must meet the general requirements for allcombustible heating appliances established in the 2002 version of the NationalFire Protection Association's(http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/PDF/ROP/211-F2002-rop.pdf) standards that requireventless fireplaces to have factory-installed carbon monoxide monitors andoxygen detection safety devices (ODS). These safety devices automatically shutoff the fireplace if the carbon monoxide level in the room rises above 25 partsper million, and/or the oxygen level falls below 18%--levels for indoor airquality (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html) suggested (but not standardized orregulated) by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Critics, however, claim that such monitors are unreliable and imprecise,allowing oxygen and carbon monoxide levels to fluctuate out of range before theunits shut down, resulting in potential health hazards. The state of Californiacompletely bans these products, citing concern for occupant safety and health.

Ventless fireplaces that use gel canisters or electricity, meanwhile, are abovethat fray, as they don't emit anything other than a low amount of heat.

Any ventless fireplace is generally suggested for supplemental space heatingand perhaps aesthetics alone. Those with automatic ignition or that use gelfuel can supply a low level of room heat for short spans of time and duringpower outages, when electricity isn't available.

Installation and maintenance

Ventless fireplaces that are connected to agas or propane line require professional installation by a gas or plumbingcontractor, and shouldn't have a heating capacity that exceeds the appropriateroom size recommended by the manufacturer.

Despite their relative ease of installation, and regardless of fuel source,ventless fireplaces aren't a turn-them-on-and-forget option. All units requireat least annual cleaning of the log set and other exposed components, while gasand propane products should also have their oxygen and carbon monoxide monitorschecked and adjusted annually for optimum performance.

Although suppliers may tout the integrity of factory-installed carbon monoxidemonitors, installing a hard-wired, independent carbon monoxide monitor in theroom in which the fireplace is located is a smart second tier of safety. Expectto pay $100-$200 for an hour of an electrician's time and the monitor.

Costs

Gas- or propane-connected ventlessfireplaces usually include a factory-finished enclosure and/or mantle. Withprofessional installation, they cost $2,000-$6,000. Installation may notrequire a building permit, but check with your local building department toconfirm if there are any regulations or limits on the use of a ventlessfireplace.

Gel-powered ventless fireplaces generally cost less, $300-$700, and don'trequire professional installation and associated costs. Some assembly by thepurchaser may be required, including the placement of factory-supplied logs infront of the gel canisters. The fuel comes in 13-ounce canisters that costabout $3 and last about 2.5 hours each. They are sold in cases of 24 for about$80 or $110 for a dozen, 30-ounce refill bottles.

Electric fireplaces also are standalone, self-contained, and factory-finished,requiring no installation other than removing them from the box and pluggingthem into a wall socket. They cost about $1,000 and up, depending on thesophistication of the mantel and surround. Suppliers claim these productsproduce a realistic flame effect created by randomly filtered lighting, butjudge for yourself at a retailer before you buy.

Choosing the correct size

It's important to size a ventless fireplacefor the size of its room. A large, open space, such as a great room, shouldhandle a ventless gas/propane fireplace with a 25,000 BTU or higher output,akin to the heat output from a sealed and vented gas fireplace.

For smaller rooms, such as a bedroom or bathroom, ventless gas- orpropane-fueled fireplaces can be sized down to 5,000 BTUs. For optimum controlover heat output, these units can be regulated by a wall thermostat or remotecontrol.

Gel-powered units can output up to 9,000 BTUs. Electric fireplaces, like spaceheaters, provide very localized output-at most, 4,500 BTUs-but will remainworking as long as they are plugged in and switched on.

Regardless, ventless fireplaces of any kind and size are nearly 100% efficient,as very little of the heat they emit escapes the room. By contrast, anopen-faced, wood-burning fireplace with a chimney may lose 85% or more of itsheat output through the flue.

Rich Binsacca has been writing about housing and home improvement since 1987.He's the author of 12 books on various home-related topics, is currently acontributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines, and has written articlesfor such magazines as Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record. He intermittentlyuses the wood-burning fireplace and the gas-fueled freestanding stove that camewith his current home.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

The Shoe House

2012-01-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

The Shoe House--South Africa
The Shoe is the work of entrepreneur and artist Ron Van Zyl, who built it in 1990. It is the third mimetic piece he has built along this road. His wife Yvonne wanted a shoe, so he built her one.

Source

The Shoe House of the Wizard
The Shoe House, built in 1948, was by far "Colonel" Mahlon N. Haines' most outlandish advertising gimmick. It is a wood frame structure covered with wire lath and coated with a cement stucco. It measures 48 ft. in length, 17 ft. in width at the widest part and 25 ft. in height. The interior consists of five different levels and contains three bedrooms, two baths, a kitchen and living room.

Source

The Shoe House--Hellam, Pennsylvania

The Shoe House was built in 1948 (and completed in 1949) by Colonel Mahlon M. Haines, the flamboyant "Shoe Wizard," for advertising purposes. Haines walked up to an architect, handed him an old work boot, and said "Build me a house like this."

Source

What You Need for a Mortgage

2012-01-20T08:00:00.000-08:00

Lender Checklist: What You Need for a Mortgage

□ W-2 forms — or business tax return forms if you're self-employed — for the last two or three years for every

person signing the loan.

□ Copies of at least one pay stub for each person signing the loan.

□ Account numbers of all your credit cards and the amounts for any outstanding balances.

□ Copies of two to four months of bank or credit union statements for both checking and savings

accounts.

□ Lender, loan number, and amount owed on other installment loans, such as student loans and

car loans.

□ Addresses where you’ve lived for the last five to seven years, with names of landlords if

appropriate.

□ Copies of brokerage account statements for two to four months, as well as a list of any other major assets of

value, such as a boat, RV, or stocks or bonds not held in a brokerage account.

□ Copies of your most recent 401(k) or other retirement account statement.

□ Documentation to verify additional income, such as child support or a pension.

□ Copies of personal tax forms for the last two to three years.

Reprinted from REALTOR®magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag) withpermission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Forms You'll Need to Sell Your Home

2012-01-19T08:00:00.000-08:00

Forms You’ll Need to Sell Your Home

1. Property disclosure form. This form requires you to reveal all known defects to your property. Check with your state government to see if there is a special form required in your state.

2. Purchasers access to premises agreement. This agreement sets conditions for permitting the buyer to enter your home for activities such as measuring for draperies before you move.

3. Sales contract. The agreement between you and the seller on terms and conditions of sale. Again, check with your state real estate department to see if there is a required form.

4. Sales contract contingency clauses. In addition to the contract, you may need to add one or more attachments to the contract to address special contingencies — such as the buyer’s need to sell a home before purchasing yours.

5. Pre- and post-occupancy agreements. Unless you’re planning on moving out and the buyer moving in on the day of closing, you’ll need an agreement on the terms and costs of occupancy once the sale closes.

6. Lead-based paint disclosure pamphlet. If your home was built before 1978, you must provide the pamphlet to all sellers. You must also have buyers sign a statement indicating they received the pamphlet.

Reprinted from REALTOR®magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag) withpermission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Home Maintenance 101:

2012-01-18T08:00:00.000-08:00

Things Every Home Owner Should Know

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon

Published: September 02, 2011

It's back-to-school time, and the perfectseason to bone up on your home owner basics: standard DIY know-how that'll keepyour household running smoothly, day in and day out.

So here's your course: Home Owner 101.Build a bookmark folder on your browser and add the web addresses of thesevideos so they're only a click away when you need them. Review them when youcan, and practice the techniques to ace the course.

1. Fix a leaky toilet.

Running toilets not only rob sleep, they wastewater and jack up your bill. Here's how to change a flapper -- the usualsuspect -- and solve other likely problems.

2. Repair drywall holes.

Thehardest part of drywall repair is making the patch flush with the existingwall. A "pumpkin patch" is an easy repair that cuts down on sanding.

3. Adjust cabinet doors.

Changes in humidity can make cabinet doorsrub, refuse to close, or just look cockeyed. Adjusting them is easy andgenerally requires only a screwdriver.

4. Open a stuck window.

Windows stick when paint, dust, or moisturebuilds. Use a utility knife (or a pizza cutter) to remove old paint. Be carefulnot to gouge the wood sash. If high humidity is making windows hard to move,run a humidifier that sucks moisture out of air.

5. Stop a leaking faucet.

Adripping faucet can waste 5 gallons of water per day. If you can't replace thefaulty part immediately, tie a string around the faucet and let it fall intothe drain: Dripping water will silently flow down the string.

6. Silence door squeaks.

Take the squeak out of doors bylubricating top and bottom hinges with a little WD-40 or white lithium grease.If you don't have any on hand, olive oil is a quick but temporary fix.

7. Turn off the main water line.

Don't wait until water gushes into your houseto search for the main water line. When things are calm and dry, locate andpractice turning it on and off.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Hidden Dangers After Flood:

2012-01-17T08:00:00.000-08:00

Check Your Fireplace and HVAC

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: John Riha

Published: September 01, 2011

Damage from rainwater and floodingpost-natural disaster can mean wrecked siding, soaked drywall, and carpets madeof mud. But less obvious damage may lurk inside your home in fireplaces,furnaces, and appliances.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America has some smart advice for heading off potentiallydangerous post-flood damage:

•Replace gas fireplace(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/fireplaces-chimneys/gas-fireplace-inserts-pros-cons/)logs. Water and small bits of debris can clog valves, and metal parts mayrapidly deteriorate after exposure to water, causing gas leaks.

•Replace fireplace fans and wiring.Electrical connections and water just don't mix. Don't take the chance; beforeyou flip the switch, get new parts.

•Have appliances and heatersprofessionally inspected. Get a furnace pro or heating-and-cooling specialistto check your heating system(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/heating-cooling/essential-heating-system-maintenance/)and water heater(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/water-heaters-repair-or-replace/)for damage to fans, wiring, gas connections, and burner units.

•Check the chimney. Call in acertified chimney sweep (http://www.csia.org/default.aspx?tabid=174) to do athorough chimney inspection (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/fireplaces-chimneys/chimney-inspection-facts/)of your fireplace box and chimney for damage to masonry, mortar, and fluecomponents.

Been through a flood? Got somehard-earned tips about flood cleanup and safety? Let's hear them!

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Upside Down House

2012-01-16T08:00:00.000-08:00

The Upside Down House is a project created by a Polish businessman and philanthropist named Daniel Czapiewski, and is located in Poland in the tiny village of Szymbark, and here are a few pics with this house. Rather than simply being a bizarre tourist attraction this house, managed to attract thousands of tourists. The house is also meant to be a profound statement about the Communist era and the state of the world. Czapiewski’s company would normally take three weeks to construct a house, but this one took 114 days because the workers were disorientated by the strange angles of the walls. Many tourists who visit complain of mild seasickness and dizziness after just a few minutes of being in the structure. Now let’s take a look at some pictures with this house.

Source

Another Upside Down House--On September 4, 2008 an upside-down house was built as a source of tourism. The architects, Polish partners Klaudiusz Golos andSebastian Mikiciuk designed the house as part of the project 'The World Upside Down' that should allow visitors a different view of every day items. Since the whole interior is upside-down and can disorient some, the house will be used purely as an exhibit.^[2]

Source

Reasons to Own Your Home

2012-01-13T08:00:00.000-08:00

1. Tax breaks. The U.S. Tax Code lets you deduct the interest you pay on your mortgage, your property taxes, as well as some of the costs involved in buying your home.

2. Appreciation. Real estate has long-term, stable growth in value. While year-to-year fluctuations are normal, median existing-home sale prices have increased on average 6.5 percent each year from 1972 through 2005, and increased 88.5 percent over the last 10 years, according to the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. In addition, the number of

U.S.

households is expected to rise 15 percent over the next decade, creating continued high demand for housing.

3. Equity. Money paid for rent is money that you’ll never see again, but mortgage payments let you build equity ownership interest in your home.

4. Savings. Building equity in your home is a ready-made savings plan. And when you sell, you can generally take up to $250,000 ($500,000 for a married couple) as gain without owing any federal income tax.

5. Predictability. Unlike rent, your fixed-mortgage payments don’t rise over the years so your housing costs may actually decline as you own the home longer. However, keep in mind that property taxes and insurance costs will increase.

6. Freedom. The home is yours. You can decorate any way you want and benefit from your investment for as long as you own the home.

7. Stability. Remaining in one neighborhood for several years gives you a chance to participate in community activities, lets you and your family establish lasting friendships, and offers your children the benefit of educational continuity.

Online resources: To calculate whether buying is the best financial option for you, use the “Buy vs. Rent” calculator at www.GinnieMae.gov.

Tips for Pricing Your Home

2012-01-12T08:00:00.000-08:00

· Consider comparables. What have other homes in your neighborhood sold for recently? How do they compare to yours in terms of size, upkeep, and amenities?

· Consider competition. How many other houses are for sale in your area? Are you competing against new homes?

· Consider your contingencies. Do you have special concerns that would affect the price you’ll receive? For example, do you want to be able to move in four months?

· Get an appraisal. For a few hundred dollars, a qualified appraiser can give you an estimate of your home’s value. Be sure to ask for a market-value appraisal. To locate appraisers in your area, contact The Appraisal Institute (www.appraisalinstitute.org) or ask your REALTOR® for some recommendations.

· Ask a lender. Since most buyers will need a mortgage, it’s important that a home’s sale price be in line with a lender’s estimate of its value.

· Be accurate. Studies show that homes priced more than 3 percent over the correct price take longer to sell.

· Know what you’ll take. It’s critical to know what price you’ll accept before beginning a negotiation with a buyer.

Why Renters are the Next Mortgage Crisis

2012-01-11T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Dona DeZube

Published: October 14, 2011

If you've been wondering if you should berenting rather than owning, consider this expert's view.

If the constant media drum beat ofnegativity toward home ownership(http://www.houselogic.com/support-home-ownership/) has you wondering if you'recrazy for buying a home instead of renting, you'll feel better after readingLiz Davidson's Forbes Magazine blog, The Next Mortgage .

Davidson, the CEO of financial educationcompany Financial Finesse, argues that renters set themselves up for financialfailure in retirement:

"Today, there's another mortgagecrisis in the works - that is, NOT having one - choosing to rent when you canafford to buy; choosing to forgo building equity in a home as a major source ofretirement security - something that may be more necessary now than ever beforewith a soft stock market and low interest rates."

Her cautionary tale compares the consumerwho buys a $300,000 home and has a $1,500 monthly mortgage payment with theconsumer who rents.

If rents rise at the pace of current inflation (3.2% a year) the renter willpay $900,000 for housing over 30 years, while the home owner will pay $540,000because his payment continues to be $1,500 a month.

If his house appreciates 1% a year, thehome owner heads into retirement with $100,000 in equity in addition to the$300,000 he paid for his house. The home owner does have to keep paying housingexpenses like property taxes and insurance, but the monthly mortgage is paidoff.

Meanwhile, the renter has paid nearly twice as much to keep a roof over hishead for 30 years, has given up $400,000 in retirement assets, and has tocontinue paying rent during retirement.

Becoming a nation of renters will bring ona future financial crisis, Davidson predicts:

"If Americans don't recover soon fromtheir pessimism around home ownership, we predict another fallout from thefinancial crisis will surface many years from now when a nation of renterstries to retire. They won't have equity in their homes. Their paychecks will bestretched to the limit, not leaving room for saving and investing forretirement and other financial goals such as college funding. Instead of theirexpenses reducing through retirement, they will look straight down the barrelof increased rent payments for the rest of their lives."

I know everyone isn't suited for homeownership. But for me, home ownership is a ticket to an affordable retirementand the reason I can tell my high schooler she can go to college anywhere thatwill take her, and why I can look forward to a last pit stop at a really nicenursing home on my way out of this world. I can't imagine trading that securityfor the short-term freedom of a rental home.

Are you sorry or happy you choose to buyyour home? Could you see yourself going back to renting?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Skip These Minor Maintenance Chores Now and You’ll Spend More Later

2012-01-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 13, 2011

These often-overlooked home maintenancechores will cost you in the long run if you neglect them.

This time of year brings out the homemaintenance scolds urging us to perform those annual chores that keep ourhouses safe and sound. It's always the same - change your furnace filters(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/heating-cooling/hvac-maintenance/),drain outdoor faucets, clean gutters. But we've found a fresh voice who adds afew surprises to his home maintenance list.

Lou Manfredini, host of House Smarts TV, has added some easy-to-forget choresto his home maintenance list that will cost you if you ignore them:

•Drain water heaters to removesediment This video shows you how.

•Re-seal foggy windows

•Replace curled roof shingles

•Re-grout cracked kitchen and bathtiles.

Have you neglected a maintenance chorethat bit you later?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Basket Building

2012-01-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Company Headquarters--The Longaberger corporate headquarters on State Route 16 is a local landmark and a well-known example of novelty architecture, since it takes the shape of their biggest seller, the "Medium Market Basket".^[1] The basket handles weigh almost 150 tons and can be heated during cold weather to prevent ice damage.^[2] Originally, Dave Longaberger wanted all of the Longaberger buildings to be shaped like baskets, but only the headquarters was completed at the time of his death. After his death, further basket-shaped buildings were vetoed by his daughters.

source

Common First-Time Home Buyer Mistakes

2012-01-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

1. They don’t ask enough questions of their lender and end up missing out on the best deal.

2. They don’t act quickly enough to make a decision and someone else buys the house.

3. They don’t find the right agent who’s willing to help them through the homebuying process.

4. They don’t do enough to make their offer look appealing to a seller.

5. They don’t think about resale before they buy. The average first-time buyer only stays in a home for four years.

Source: Real Estate Checklists and Systems, www.realestatechecklists.com.

Reprinted fromREALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag)with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

How to Get an Offer on Your Home

2012-01-05T08:00:00.001-08:00

1. Price it right. Set a price at the lower end of your property’s realistic price range.

2. Prepare for visitors. Get your house market ready at least two weeks before you begin showing it.

3. Be flexible about showings. It’s often disruptive to have a house ready to show at the spur of the moment. But the more amenable you can be about letting people see your home, the sooner you’ll find a buyer.

4. Anticipate the offers. Decide in advance what price and terms you’ll find acceptable.

5. Don’t refuse to drop the price. If your home has been on the market for more than 30 days without an offer, you should be prepared to at least consider lowering your asking price.

Looking for Ideas to Reuse Old Items?

2012-01-05T08:00:00.000-08:00

Check out IKEA Hackers

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 07, 2011

We love it when we find a site that helps usfind ways to reuse old items, and IKEA Hackers fits the bill with creativesolutions.

IKEA groupies - fans of the world's largestfurniture retailer - can't bear to part with anything they've assembledthemselves. So they're sharing their repurposing ideas on IKEAHackers.net, a site that encourages recycling and reusing(http://www.houselogic.com/green-living/recycling-reusing/) - values close toHouseLogic hearts.

"This site is really about a communityof crazy IKEA fans," the site says."We hack, personalize, repurposeIKEA products into the very thing we want."

For instance, one IKEA-ite turned ashelving unit on it side to create a low play table for her 2-year-old twins(lots of storage underneath). When the kids got a little bigger and wanted atrain table, Mom screwed on four coasters to raise the table and make itportable.

"When they are done playing, we simplyroll it back against the wall to have more space," the mom says.

Another IKEA hacker made a colorful coatrack byscrewing Bastis "dog butt" hooks onto anunpainted, soft wood shelf.

"I picked red, green and black to giveit kind of an African/Jamaican theme, " hacker Nick says. "Theassembly is really simple, just a few screws and that's it."

What have you repurposed lately?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Secrets of a Great Neighborhood Revealed

2012-01-04T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon

Published: August 05, 2011

OK. It's not really complicated or a secret:Great neighbors make great neighborhoods.

For instance, my friend Lynne lives on ablock where neighbors celebrate holidays, discuss books, cook meals, and evenvacation together. On back-to-school day each autumn, someone always throws agrateful parents' brunch.

Lynne lives in a great neighborhood.

On the other hand, I live two miles away on a block where neighbors are politebut standoffish. If we see a flashing ambulance light, we're there for eachother. If not, we keep our distance.

I live in a decent neighborhood -- but it's no fun.

Technically, great neighborhoods haveaccess to mass transit, bike lanes, and sidewalks, says David Morley of theAmerican Planning Association, which annually tracks down and designates GreatPlaces in America (See website).

"But there are intangible qualities that go into a greatneighborhood," Morley says. "Maybe it isn't about being a greatplace, but a great community."

Morley's on to something. Great neighbors pull together; they give up a littleprivacy in favor of connection.

Like Ramaesh Bhagirat's neighbors in Anacostia's Ward 7, a Washington, DC,neighborhood that nobody thinks is particularly great. But after Bhagirat'sThai restaurant was robbed at gunpoint, 50 neighbors who didn't much like chivedumplings flooded the place to show support. They wanted to keep open a raresit-down restaurant in a ward of plexigass-protected takeout and deliveryjoints.

What's more, on the second Tuesday of every month, 40 members of theneighborhood's planning commission now convene at the restaurant for an$11-per-plate buffet.

"They don't want us to move, to even think about moving," Bhagiratsays. "Now, we feel a responsibility to Anacostia. And we have a lot ofpeople who like the food."

Ward 7 may not become a great neighborhood in my lifetime, but it's gettingbetter.

Great neighborhoods are more about point of view than view. Residents see theirhouses as rooms in a larger home - their community, says Ross Chapin, aWashington state architect and author of Pocket Neighborhoods: CreatingSmall-Scale Community in a Large-Scale World.

Chapin designs what he preaches. To foster connections, his homes featurestreet-facing porches with railings that have "comfortably perchable"extra-wide tops so neighbors can set a spell. The small "pocketneighborhoods" he designs feature 8 to 10 houses with kitchens and livingrooms that look onto common areas.

Great places are messy with life and sharedactivity. For example, Chapin has friends who dragged their dining room tableonto their front lawn so, in a sense, they could dine with neighbors eachevening.

Want to raise your neighborhood a notch on the greatness scale? Chapin has afew suggestions:

•Barbecue in the front yard, ratherthan the back, and throw more hot dogs on the grill when neighbors stop by.

•Mow your own lawn(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/). It'sgood exercise and a good way to strike up conversations.

•Turn a vacant lot into a communitygarden (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/gardens/start-community-garden/),then share the harvest and dine together.

•If you've got a front porch, sit onit. If you've got a sidewalk, walk on it.

•On a hot day, set out a bowl of waterfor thirsty dogs: Pets are neighbors, too.

How does your neighborhood rate on ascale from 1 to 10 (the highest)? Tell us what makes it special.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Hail Britannia Women! They DIY More Than Men

2012-01-03T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: August 29, 2011

We say, "You go, sisters" toBritish women who are increasing their home improvement skills, while theircountrymen seem to be losing theirs.

A recent article (Click to read)in England's The Telegraph links two DIY surveys - one that shows 70% ofBritish women are happy to perform do-it-yourself(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/contracting/when-it-pays-to-do-it-yourself/)tasks around the house, and another that finds 15% of British men under 50 shyaway from even changing a light bulb. (This video shows you how to change abulb:)

Hereare some standout results in the July study of 2,000 British women commissionedby B&Q, the UK's largest home improvement retailer.

•50% of women spend between one andfive hours a week doing DIY; 20% spend between six and 10 hours.

•82% would rather paint a roomthemselves than leave it to a partner or relation.

•Of the 60% of women currently in arelationship, 35% say they do more DIY around the house than their partner.

Why do British women dive into DIY projects?According to the survey:

•It's the only way anything can getdone.

•They had just bought a house or flat.

•They enjoy the challenge.

•They want to stop asking their dadfor help.

On the other hand, a survey(find it here) of 3,000 Britishmen under 50 shows that 20% happily admit they can't do basic DIY jobs and ratetheir skills as "poor." The 2010 study also shows:

•26% would struggle to rewire a plug.

•16% would not be able to hang apicture.

•14% would not be able to paint awall.

Why are British men under 50 so DIYunfriendly? Laziness and hectic lifestyles, according to Comcero.com, an onlinemarketplace for trade services, which commissioned the study.

"Whereas our dads and granddads wouldhave done most of the DIY themselves, it seems you might now have more luckjust calling in a professional straight away," says Bal Mattu, Comcero.comfounder.

Who's better at completing DIY projects in yourhome?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Crooked House

2012-01-02T08:00:00.000-08:00

The Crooked House

Poland--The Krzywy Domek is an irregularly-shaped building in Sopot, Poland. Its name translates in to English as the Crooked House. ^[1]

The Krzywy Domek was built in 2004. It is approximately 4,000 square meters in size and is part of the Rezydent shopping center.

It was designed by Szotyńscy & Zaleski who were inspired by the fairytale illustrations and drawings of Jan Marcin Szancer and Per Dahlberg. It can be entered from either Monte Cassino or Morska Streets.^[2]

Source

Book--Crooked House is a work of detective fiction by Agatha Christie first published in the US by Dodd, Mead and Company in March 1949^[1] and in the UK by the Collins Crime Club on May 23 of the same year.^[2] The US edition retailed at $2.50^[1] and the UK edition at eight shillings andsixpence (8/6).^[3]

The action takes place in and near London in the autumn of 1947. Christie has said that this was one of her two favourites of her own works, the other being Ordeal by Innocence.

Source

Short Story--"'—And He Built a Crooked House—'" is a science fiction short story by Robert A. Heinlein first published in Astounding Science Fictionin February 1941.^[1] It was reprinted in the anthology Fantasia Mathematica (Clifton Fadiman, ed.) in 1958 and in the Heinlein collection The Unpleasant Profession of Jonathan Hoag in 1959. The story is about a mathematically inclined architect named Quintus Teal who has what he thinks is a brilliant idea to save on real estate costs by building a house shaped like the unfolded net of a tesseract. The title is a paraphrase of the nursery rhyme "There Was a Crooked Man".

Source

Show--Crooked House is a supernatural drama mini-series which aired on BBC Four in December 2008.

Source

Boarding House--The Crooked House is a public house in the West Midlands of England.

Its name and distinctive appearance are the result of 19th century mining subsidence. One side of the building is now approximately four feet lower than the other.

It stands in an isolated location just off the B4176 road between Dudley and Telford, approximately three miles from the nearest town centres of Sedgley and Dudley. It is located just within the Dudley borough boundary near the border with South Staffordshire.

Source

For other Crooked House see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crooked_House_(disambiguation)

Are You Really Saving Power with Your Energy-Efficient Upgrades?

2011-12-30T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Courtney Craig

Published: October 17, 2011

Energy-efficient appliances can't do the job alone -- you must reduce usage as well to save money.

If you've made a few green improvements to your home in the hopes that you'll save money on energy bills (http://www.houselogic.com/green-living/saving-energy/), it's possible your bills have stayed the same or even gone up instead. What gives?

Some experts theorize that the more energy-efficient our homes become, the more energy people will use. They call it the"energy rebound theory" (http://www.thedailygreen.com/environmental-news/blogs/republican/energy-rebound) - as our homes gain more electronic devices, the risk of increased energy consumption goes up, even when the electronics we add are labeled as energy-efficient.

It may sound obvious, but adding extra wall insulation and putting CFLs in every light fixture won't do the job aloneIf you want to see results on your energy bills, you have to make a conscious effort to reduce energy consumption at every opportunity.

For example, if you buy a new Energy Star-rated washing machine, you may feel the freedom to do more loads of laundry. But if you want to save money, you must resist the urge to binge on energy use and instead be prudent about how often you wash. The combination of doing fewer loads and using a more efficient machine will be reflected on your monthly bills.

Consider these solutions to get you started on conserving more energy:

•Energy monitors (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/energy-monitors-seeing-believing-and-saving/) help you keep track of power usage. If you can see what appliances in your home are sucking the most energy, you'll be able to tell where you can cut back and save.

•Don't go it alone. Energy efficiency can be a fun project for the whole family (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/saving-energy/energy-saving-projects-family/) - let your kids help you hunt for air leaks, add caulk and weather stripping, and review monthly bills.

•Cutting back on your bills isn't the only way to pad your wallet - check with your utility to see if your energy-efficient improvements qualify for a rebate (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/utility-energy-rebates/).

Have your energy bills been on the rise, even though you've made green improvements to your home? What will you do about it?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Steps to buy again after foreclosure

2011-12-28T10:39:00.000-08:00

Mood of the Market

By Tara-Nicholle Nelson
Inman News™

December 19, 2011

Homeowners facing foreclosure seem to be desperate to buy again.

Frequently, I receive letters from someone who hasn't yet lost their home to foreclosure but anticipates they soon will, and wants to be able to get back into the market, quick-like.

Many claim their haste is because they don't want to miss out on today's bargain housing prices or interest rates. Yet neither seems poised to rise significantly any time soon.

In the same breath, many of these folks say they're ready to pay top dollar for their next home, and pay an additional premium if they are forced to rely on lease-to-own, seller financing, or a hard-money mortgage.

Others claim they don't want to miss out on the opportunity to build equity in a home instead of paying rent, or cite the tax advantages of homeownership as the piece they particularly want to retain.

My advice is almost always this: Slow down! Most legitimate loan programs now impose a three-year-plus waiting period after a borrower loses a home to foreclosure, even if they would otherwise qualify for a mortgage based on their credit score, income and assets.

Here are my four suggestions for how you can wisely use that waiting period to recover from a foreclosure -- these steps also do double duty in terms of setting you up for success and sustainability the next time you buy a home.

1. Feel the pain.

Many folks who write to me are still in the early stages of grief at the loss of their home: anger and denial. They are angry at the bank, and in denial about the loss of their home and its advantages, from status to tax write-offs.

What I know is that getting through this grief is an essential first step to truly moving forward. Inherent in grief is an acknowledgement that something is dead and over. The acceptance of that finality is what allows you to move forward and learn the lessons that such experiences can teach.

As long as you're stuck in the emotional protestations of how unfair it was that you lost your home, or spinning in a place of outrage about the Wall Street bailouts, you're probably not making emotional progress to the point where you can begin to learn from your experience.

2. Metabolize the loss.

Henry Cloud, bestselling author of "Necessary Endings: The Employees, Businesses, and Relationships That All of Us Have to Give Up in Order to Move Forward" (Harper Business, 2011), recommends that we treat our painful past experiences as our bodies do food, metabolizing them by taking away the lessons we can distill from them that will fuel our future decisions, and leaving behind the pain and other toxic wastes from the experience.

Individuals and couples should take time out to acknowledge what has happened, and distill and discuss mistakes that were made and insights you've gained so that you can avoid repeating them in the future. It's a meaningful method for progressing past grief and repositioning yourself to make smarter decisions about your money and your mortgage for the rest of your life.

3. Avoid rebound home purchases.

There's a whole lot of what I call tuition -- the price we pay to learn life lessons -- involved in the loss a home to foreclosure. If rush in too quickly to the next home purchase, chances are good we'll miss the lesson and get nothing for the tuition. This is evident in the gymnastics many foreclosed homeowners are considering going through in order to buy a home at all costs. These may mirror their willingness a few years ago to take on an unsustainable mortgage, which is what got some portion of them into foreclosure in the first place.

Trying to replace our losses on the rebound, be it after a breakup or after a foreclosure, is how people end up repeating their mistakes. Making new, unsustainable mortgage commitments and chronically overspending or over borrowing is no different from your friend who keeps repeating the same old dysfunctional relationship patterns, year after year.

4. Heal your finances.

My advice to foreclosed homeowners is to devote some real time to working on their finances, without worrying about buying another home. Get your debt paid down or off. Change your spending habits and your overall relationship with money. Get your taxes current and paid. Save some money. Create the habit of paying every bill on time every time. Eliminate unnecessary monthly expenses. Work the programs in "365 Days to Organized Finances or Financial Recovery," or some similar book, or both. Focus for awhile on your career development.

Tara-Nicholle Nelson is author of "The Savvy Woman's Homebuying Handbook" and "Trillion Dollar Women: Use Your Power to Make Buying and Remodeling Decisions." Tara is also the Consumer Ambassador and Educator for real estate listings search site Trulia.com. Ask her a real estate question online or visit her website,www.rethinkrealestate.com.

source:Copyright 2011 Tara-Nicholle Nelson http://lowes.inman.com/inmaninf/lowesnewsletter/news/164619

Embracing imperfect architecture

2011-12-26T08:00:00.000-08:00

Look to Japan for new take on aesthetics

By Arrol Gellner
Inman News™

December 19, 2011

We Americans routinely beat ourselves up in the pursuit of what we consider to be perfection. In my line of work, for example, it's nothing for a homeowner to turn apoplectic over a tiny scratch in a newly installed floor, or to insist that a contractor replace a ceramic tile whose color varies ever so slightly from its mates. In today's litigious atmosphere, this righteous demand for a very Western ideal of perfection can have even top-flight contractors quaking in fear of their clients -- hardly the basis for an ideal working relationship.

Our friends in Japan, on the other hand, have an entirely different aesthetic viewpoint. They acknowledge that imperfection is a quality inseparable from any human effort, and what's more, they believe that imperfection has aesthetic worth in itself. So central is this idea to the Japanese sense of beauty that it has a name: wabi-sabi.

Wabi-sabi is a concept roughly analogous to the West's ideal of perfection, which we inherited from ancient Greece. Western architects, for example, have accepted the Greek architectural orders as the proportional ideal for centuries. Yet the Greek brand of perfection requires an object to have a complete absence of flaws -- to be, as Plato put it, "apt, suitable, without deviations."

Wabi-sabi, on the other hand, explicitly accepts and even celebrates such "deviations" as an inherent quality of any human undertaking -- a belief beautifully expressed by author Richard R. Powell in his book "Wabi Sabi Simple: Create beauty. Value imperfection. Live deeply."

"Wabi-Sabi nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging three simple realities: nothing lasts; nothing is finished; and nothing is perfect."

The term wabi-sabi can variously be interpreted as "wisdom in rustic simplicity" -- a common Japanese definition -- or, more generally, as "flawed beauty." The word wabi originally referred to the loneliness of living in nature, but in more recent centuries has come to mean rustic simplicity, freshness or quietness. Sabi is the beauty or serenity that comes with age -- once again, an implicit recognition of imperfection. The Western term patina is perhaps the nearest analog, though its meaning is quite literally more superficial.

It's important to note that wabi-sabi doesn't discourage the pursuit of perfection, but simply acknowledges that true perfection is unattainable no matter how fervently we pursue it. The fortunate flip side of this truth is the belief that time, usage and the anomalies of human effort -- the very forces that obviate perfection -- actually add new dimensions of beauty to objects rather than diminishing them.

Given all the anxiety I've seen clients expend on pursuing perfection in their own remodeling projects, they'd do well to experience at least a dash of the exhilarating freedom the wabi-sabi viewpoint can provide. Is it really worth losing sleep over that tiny scratch in the hardwood floor? It will, after all, very quickly be joined by dozens and finally hundreds more.

Does this make the floor any less beautiful? To my mind, not to speak of the Japanese mind, it does just the opposite: By evincing the traces of those who've crossed it over the years and eventually the decades, it becomes a testament, not to inhuman perfection, but rather to imperfect humanity.

Read Arrol Gellner's blog at arrolgellner.blogspot.com, or follow him on Twitter:@ArrolGellner.

Source: Copyright 2011 Arrol Gellner http://lowes.inman.com/inmaninf/lowesnewsletter/news/162784

Must do's when adding attic insulation

2011-12-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

Combining batts, loose-fill fiberglass can create moisture issues

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News™

December 19, 2011

Q: I've had loose-fill fiberglass (insulation) in my attic since 1975. I have some new insulation with brown paper covering on one side so I need to know if that is called batts? If it is called insulation batts, then can I put them on top of loose-fill fiberglass? Which side would I put the batts: at bottom or at top?

In your article you wrote about "using unfaced batts only so that you don't create a double vapor barrier and trap moisture between the layers of batts." What does that mean? I want to understand about it clearly before I put them in the attic. --Becky F.
A: The type of insulation you describe, with the paper facing over the insulation, is indeed what is known as batts. The paper facing is the vapor barrier.
Here's a quick explanation of how it all works: Inside the house, you create moisture from cooking, bathing, etc. That moisture vapor in the air wants to move from a warm area to a cold area, so it's naturally always moving toward the ceiling and exterior walls of the house.
Vapor barriers are used to prevent that moisture from getting into enclosed areas where you don't want it, because once it gets in there, if it can't escape it can do a lot of damage.
For that reason, batt insulation often comes with a vapor barrier on one side. The vapor barrier is always installed facing the heated side of the wall or ceiling, because that's where the moisture is coming from.
Now let's look at your situation, which is a little different. You have loose-fill insulation in the attic, which doesn't have a vapor barrier. The theory is that part of the moisture vapor in the house is actually blocked by the drywall and paint on the ceiling.
Any moisture that does enter the attic will pass through the loose-fill insulation and exit the attic through the roof vents, so it won't cause any damage.
It's fine for you to install your batt insulation over the existing loose fill. However, you want to remove the paper vapor barrier first -- simply peel it off and discard it -- then lay the batts on top of the loose fill as gently as possible, so that you don't compress the old insulation.
If you don't remove the vapor barrier, you run the risk of trapping moisture vapor that passes through the loose fill against the vapor barrier, where it can't escape from the attic.
Q: We have the "new insulated window," and after 10 years we have had major condensation problems. Any thoughts? --Wilson R.
A: If the condensation is appearing between the panes of glass, then you have a broken seal in the insulated glass unit. Insulated glass works by trapping a layer of dead air between two panes of glass. If the seal is broken, moisture can get between the panes and condense, and it's very difficult to get rid of.
The only solution is to replace the insulated glass unit. You need to call a local glass company, and the company can make a site visit and measure your window. They'll order a new sealed glass unit -- just the glass, not the entire window -- that will be made to fit your particular window. Once the new glass unit arrives, on-site installation is fairly simple for most types of windows.
Q: Are brick-construction homes colder than a wooden home in the New England winter? --Glenn D.
A: If you're talking about a true brick construction, as opposed to a brick veneer over a standard insulated, wood-framed wall, then the answer is yes. You have several problems with full-brick construction when it comes to keeping them warm:
1. Brick has an R-value of approximately 0.2 per inch (which would equal 0.8 for a standard 4-inch brick). So if you have a typical double-brick wall that's 8 inches thick, you have an R-value that's less than R-2. On the other hand, a 6-inch wood-frame wall has an R-value that's more than 10 times that much.
2. Brick homes tend to have more air infiltration problems, due to the number of joints between the bricks. Even tiny gaps can add up to a lot of infiltration heat loss when multiplied over the size of the entire home.
3. Conventional brick homes don't have wall cavities, so there's no place to add insulation. The only way to improve the thermal performance is to add a layer of rigid foam to the face of the walls.
4. Brick has a lot of thermal mass, so it takes time for heat to penetrate it and warm it up. Therefore, it takes more time for a brick house to respond to temperature changes. When you get home from work and turn on the heat, it's going to take a lot longer for a brick house to "feel" warm than for a conventional wood house.
Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

14 tips for furnace and fireplace safety

2011-12-21T08:00:00.000-08:00

Beware of the 'silent killer'

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News™

December 19, 2011

Q: Our house was built around 1940; the fireplace is original; and we installed forced-air gas heating about 10 years ago. We haven't had the fireplace or furnace inspected. What do you guys recommend to get the fireplace and the furnace ready for winter?

A: Regular inspection and servicing of fireplaces and furnaces adds to comfort, makes them more economical, and most important, keeps them safe. Regular inspections can prevent a deadly house fire or the introduction of a silent killer: carbon monoxide.
Here's our checklist to keep you cozy and safe during the winter months:
Wood-burning fireplaces
1. Inspection by a certified chimney sweep is a must. For heavy use, the chimney should be inspected and cleaned annually. Go up to five years if the fireplace is used only occasionally. The sweep should inspect for proper operation of the damper and for cracks in the flue liner, as well as sweeping the flue to remove creosote and other combustion byproducts.
2. Close the damper when the fireplace isn't in use.
3. Install a chimney cap if you don't already have one. You don't want creatures building their nest in your flue.
4. When starting a fire, "prime" the flue by holding lighted newspaper at the back wall of the firebox to start the warm air rising.
5. Burn aged, dry hardwood if possible. Fir or pine burns hot and deposits creosote in the chimney. Don't burn construction debris. It may contain toxic chemicals that will vaporize in the fire and could enter the living space.
6. Do not clean out the fireplace when the ashes are still hot. And dispose of the ashes in a place where wayward embers won't start a fire.
Fireplace with gas starter
1. If the flame goes out, wait at least five minutes before attempting to relight the fireplace. This allows time to clear the fireplace of gas.
2. Be alert for unusual odors or odd-colored flames, which are often a sign that the fireplace is not operating properly. In such cases, contact your dealer or licensed technician for servicing. Contact the gas company if you smell gas when the unit is off.
Gas furnace maintenance
1. An annual maintenance check of a gas furnace extends the life of the appliance and ferrets out any hidden problems. A qualified heating contractor should vacuum out the unit, inspect the blower motor, inspect the heat exchanger for cracks, check the electronics and perform a multipoint checklist to make sure the furnace is operating properly.
2. Clean or replace the furnace filter frequently during the heating season. This ensures that air returning from the inside of the house is unobstructed and clean when entering the combustion chamber.
3. Keep vents, space heaters and baseboards clear of furniture, rugs and drapes to allow free air movement.
4. Ensure there is free airflow around your furnace and make sure there are no storage items obstructing airflow.
5. Do not store or use combustible materials, such as chemicals, paint, rags, clothing, draperies, paper, cleaning products, gasoline, or flammable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of the furnace.
6. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless and lethal gas that can occur any time there is incomplete combustion or poor venting. Any home that contains fuel-burning appliances, such as a fireplace or furnace, should have a carbon monoxide alarm installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Designing on a Human Scale

2011-12-19T09:08:00.000-08:00

Sarah Susanka's newly-constructed 'not so big house' in Libertyville, Ill., provides smart ideas for comfortable living in fewer square feet.

DECEMBER 2011 | BY ERICA CHRISTOFFER

The house of the future — at least the immediate future — probably won’t look anything like what we saw watching “The Jetsons” as kids. But it may very well look like acclaimed architect and author Sarah Susanka’s “not so big” home that’s making its premiere just outside of Chicago.

Susanka designed the show-home for the new SchoolStreet development in Libertyville, Ill., and it’s the first time she’s created a home that is available in the mass market. In partnership with developer John McLinden, Susanka has created a home that integrates technology of the present with the comforts of the past. It’s based on an architectural concept — smarter construction in a smaller footprint — that Susanka has nurtured at least since the 1998 publication of her book, The Not So Big House: A Blueprint For the Way We Really Live.

The SchoolStreet house isn’t small; it’s more than 2,500 square feet. But as a show house, it offers numerous ideas for adapting existing space.

“People are looking not just for a smaller house, but for a better house,” says Susanka. “You can make less square footage feel like more if it’s well designed.”

According to a recent study by the National Association of Home Builders, by 2015 homes are expected to average 2,152 square feet, which is 10.5 percent smaller than the average single-family home built during 2010 (that, in turn, is down from the peak of 2,520 square feet in 2007 and 2008). Susanka’s home embodies the trend toward living well on a smaller scale by incorporating an open floor plan with ceiling accents that define the space, several multipurpose rooms, energy-efficient features, and outdoor entertainment areas. Smart organizational built-ins blend seamlessly, such as a cabinet just the right size for extra toilet paper in the home’s bathrooms and a murphy bed in a first-floor room.

“SchoolStreet houses are designed to align with a cultural shift in how home owners truly want to live — more soulful designs, filled with detail, that are sensitive to the environment and connected to a pedestrian-friendly, vital community,” McLinden said. “For decades, Sarah has been espousing the benefit of such houses. Few people have had as great an influence on the American home and lifestyle as Sarah.”

The SchoolStreet project serves as a beacon of success in today’s housing market and new-home construction. The location was previously home to a luxury townhome development that went into foreclosure. When McLinden purchased the property, he went back to the drawing board to create smaller, high-quality, cutting-edge bungalows, and slashed the prices in half, with homes now starting at $500,000. He also converted Libertyville’s neighboring historic Central School building into 15 loft condominiums. As of early December, 21 of the 26 homes and 5 of the 15 lofts had been purchased.

“I’ve been a REALTOR® since 1978, and in all those years I’ve seen many different developments, but this concept and [Susanka’s] home is the most exciting thing I’ve been a part of,” says Sue Carey, SCRP, GMS, vice president of relocation and corporate services at Century 21 Kreuser & Seiler in Libertyville, which has selling rights to the development.

The SchoolStreet homes feature a new urbanist character, with porches set close to the front sidewalk to make more of a community connection. The 26 homes and 15 lofts are located close to the Libertyville’s vibrant downtown main street and within walking distance of many amenities. The urban lifestyle, Susanka says, is attracting an array of consumers, from downsizers to first-time buyers, from professional couples to growing families.

“From my perspective as an architect and an author, what I hear is people are refocusing on their homes not so much as an investment, but as a wonderful place to live,” Susanka says. “For real estate agents, I think it’s really important to see what people are looking for today. They have been shifted by the economy and by all the uncertainty that’s been coloring our world for the last few years.”

Susanka’s show-home has given both real estate professionals and buyers an example of how to live in a more organized and thoughtful manner, Carey says. “It’s a way of living and a way of readjusting your life so that it has more tranquility to it.”

The show-home is open for tours now through May 20, 2012, after which it will be sold. Visitwww.schoolstreetlibertyville.com for more information.

Erica Christoffer

Erica Christoffer is the multimedia Web producer, as well as a writer, editor and videographer, for REALTOR® Magazine.

Source:http://realtormag.realtor.org/home-and-design/feature/article/2011/12/designing-human-scale

Appeal Your Property Tax Bill

2011-12-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Barbara Eisner Bayer

Published: October 08, 2009

To successfully appeal your property taxbill, you first need to do a bit of sleuthing into your real estate assessment.

Owning a home is an expensive proposition.There's maintenance, landscaping, utilities, renovations, and, of course,taxes. It's your civic duty to pay the latter, but it's also your right not toyield a penny more than your fair share.

It's possible to trim your property taxbill by appealing the assessed value of your home. But making a case againstyour real estate assessment, the basis for your property tax bill, requiresdoing a bit of homework. Initial research can be done online or by phone overtwo or three days, but the process can stretch out for months if you're forcedto file a formal appeal.

Read your assessment letter

A real estate assessment is conductedperiodically by the local government to assign a value to your home fortaxation purposes. An assessment isn't the same as a private appraisal, and theassessed value of your home isn't necessarily how much you could sell it fortoday. Real estate assessment letters are mailed to homeowners annually, orperhaps every two to three years, depending where you live.

The letter will include some information about your property, such as lot sizeor a legal description, as well as the assessed value of your house and land.Additional details-number of bedrooms, for example, or date of construction-canoften be found in the property listing on your local government's website. Yourproperty tax bill will usually be calculated by multiplying your home'sassessed value by the local tax rate, which can vary from town to town.

If you think your home's assessment is higher than it should be, challenge itimmediately. The clock starts ticking as soon as the letter goes out. Yougenerally have less than 30 days to respond, though the time frame varies notjust between states, but within each state. Procedures are often outlined onthe back of the letter.

Gather evidence

Start by making sure the assessment letterdoesn't contain any mistakes. Is the number of bathrooms accurate? Number offireplaces? How about the size of the lot? There's a big difference between"0.3 acres" and "3.0 acres." If any facts are wrong, thenyou may have a quick and easy challenge on your hands.

Next, research your home's value. Ask a real estate agent to find three to fivecomparable properties-"comps" in real estate jargon-that have soldrecently. Alternatively, check a website like Zillow.com(http://www.zillow.com/) to find approximate values of comparable properties.The key is identifying properties that are very similar to your own in terms ofsize, style, condition, and location. If you're willing to shell out between$350 and $600, you can hire a private appraiser to do the heavy lifting.

Once you identify comps, check the assessments on those properties. Most localgovernments maintain public databases. If yours doesn't, seek help from anagent or ask neighbors to share tax information. If the assessments on yourcomps are lower, you can argue yours is too high. Even if the assessments aresimilar, if you can show that the "comparable" properties aren'ttruly comparable, you may have a case for relief based on equity. Maybe yourneighbor added an addition while you were still struggling to clean up stormdamage. In that case, the properties are no longer equitable.

Present your case

Once you're armed with your research, callyour local assessor's office. Most assessors are willing to discuss yourassessment informally by phone. If not, or if you aren't satisfied with theexplanation, request a formal review. Pay attention to deadlines andprocedures. There's probably a form to fill out and specific instructions forsupporting evidence. A typical review, which usually doesn't require you toappear in person, can take anywhere from one to three months. Expect to receivea decision in writing.

If the review is unsuccessful, you can usually appeal the decision to anindependent board, with or without the help of a lawyer. You may have to pay amodest filing fee, perhaps $10 to $25. If you end up before an appeals board,your challenge could stretch as long as a year, especially in largejurisdictions that have a high number of appeals. But homeowners do triumph.According to Guy Griscom, Assistant Chief Appraiser of the Harris County(Texas) Central Appraisal District, of the 288,800 protests filed in hisHouston-area district in 2008, about 58% received reduced assessments.

How much effort you decide to put into a challenge depends on the stakes. Theannual U.S. median property tax(http://www.taxfoundation.org/taxdata/show/1888.html) paid in 2008 was $1,897,or 0.96% of the median home value of $197,600. Lowering that assessed value by15% would net savings of about $285. In some parts of New York and Texas, forexample, where tax rates can approach 3% of a home's value, potential savings aregreater. Ditto for communities with home prices well above the U.S. median.

There are a few things to keep in mind as you weigh an appeal. The board canonly lower your real estate assessment, not the rate at which you're taxed.There's also a chance, albeit slight, that your assessment could be raised,thus increasing your property taxes. A reduction in your assessment rightbefore you put your house on the market could hurt the sale price. An easierroute to savings might lie in determining if you qualify for property taxexemptions(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/taxes-incentives/property-tax-exemptions/)based on age, disability, military service, or other factors.

This article provides generalinformation about tax laws and consequences, but is not intended to be reliedupon by readers as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions orcircumstances. Readers should consult a tax professional for such advice, andare reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.

Barbara Eisner Bayer has written aboutmortgages and personal finance for the past 15 years for Motley Fool, the DailyPlan-It, and Nurse Village, and is the former Managing Editor ofMortgageloan.com and Credit-land.com. She has successfully challenged her realestate assessment.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Going Batty? Here's How to Get Rid of Bats in Your House

2011-12-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Jan Soults Walker

Published: October 21, 2011

Winged creatures invading your home woulddrive anyone batty. Here's how to get rid of them.

Thanks to dark tales of Count Dracula, batssuffer a bad rap. I know these creatures aren't really out to bite my neck, butthe time I discovered a small bat fluttering around our house, all myMidwestern moxie melted away.

My heroic husband came running, sensing something amiss. Perhaps it was myshrieks of "Bat! Bat! Bat in the house!"

Wielding a piece of window screen like a medieval shield, he began"herding" the bat toward the front door. I followed, shrieking unintelligibly.That's when he calmly put down the screen and herded me to the garage - much tomy humiliation. He did eventually get the bat out of the house, all without my"helpful" vocalizations.

After the incident (and with a calmer perspective), I asked renowned bat expertRob Mies (http://www.batconservation.org) if bats have any benefit to homeowners. I found out they are nature's answer to pest control.

"One bat can consume 2,000 to 5,000 insects each night," he says."You can encourage bats to dwell on your property - not in your house - bybuilding a bat house."

You can find free plans for building a bathouse (http://www.batconservation.org/drupal/free_plans) online. Placement ofthe bat house (http://www.batconservation.org/drupal/where_to_hang) isimportant too, so check out those guidelines.

So what should you do if a bat makes a debut in your den? Mies suggests thesefour steps:

•Assess occupants. If anyone in the house was bitten by the bat, or if they are unableto tell you whether they were bitten (i.e. a sleeping child), try to capturethe bat, contact your local health department, and have it tested for rabies..

•Stay calm. The bat doesn't want to attack you - it wants out. Turn on somelights so you can easily see the bat and the bat can see as well. (Contrary topopular belief, bats are not blind.)

•Create a path. Close the doors to adjoining rooms, then open the doors and windowsin the room the bat is in. If possible, turn on a light outside so the bat canreadily see the exit.

•Help it out. The bat will likely fly out the open door or window within a fewminutes. You may also want to be more direct and use a small mesh net or pillowcase to gently catch the bat in flight. If the bat lands and doesn't fly again,put on a pair of thick leather work gloves, and slowly approach the bat with asmall cardboard box or coffee can. Put the container gently over the bat, slipa piece of cardboard over the opening, and take the bat outside to release it.

Every had bats in your belfry? How didyou get rid of them?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Kitchen Fires: How to Prevent and Put out the Flames

2011-12-05T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 07, 2011

Kitchen fires are eminently preventable.Here's how to stay safe now and during the holidays when you really put youroven and stove through their paces.

I was troubled to see so many kitchen fires(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/emergency-preparedness/extinguish-your-chance-house-fire/)crowding the news today - especially since Sunday begins Fire Prevention Week(Oct. 9-15).

Cooking fires, primarily started on ranges or in ovens, cause 40% of all housefires, and 36% of all fire-related injuries, according to the National FireProtection Association. Frying poses the greatest risk, and Thanksgiving is thepeak day for kitchen fires.

So let's stay safe. Follow these easy safety tips, courtesy of the NFPA.

How to prevent a kitchen fire

1. Be alert. If you're tired or tipsy, don't use the stove or oven.

2. Never leave the kitchen - even for ashort time - when food is frying, grilling, or broiling. Don't leave the houseif food is simmering, baking, or roasting.

3. Use a timer to remind you that food iscooking.

4. Clear away from stovetops anything thatcan catch fire, like cloth and paper towels, oven mitts, and wooden spoons.

How to put out a kitchen fire

1. Get out of the kitchen. Close the doorbehind you when you leave to help prevent the fire from spreading to the restof your house.

2. When you reach safety, call 911 or yourlocal emergency number.

3. Make sure others are out of the houseand you have an escape route before you try to fight the fire.

4. Smother a grease fire by sliding a potlit over the pan. Then, turn off the stove. Don't remove the lid until the panis cool.

5. If your oven catches fire, turn it offand keep the door closed.
For a look at another method of putting out a grease fire, check out thisvideo:

Have you ever had a fire in your kitchen? Howdid you put it out?

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Dissecting a Home’s Exterior

2011-12-02T09:00:00.000-08:00

NOVEMBER 2011 MELISSA DITTMANN TRACEY
What’s on the Outside Counts

A home’s exterior is the first impression that can beckon buyers to the front door. Attractiveness aside, the siding materials used also can serve as an important detail in judging upkeep and extra costs down the road. Here are some of the most common home exteriors and the pros and cons associated with each.
Dissecting a Home’s Exterior

Energy Efficient Fireplaces: Wood-Burning and Gas-Burning

2011-11-29T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Rich Binsacca
Published: September 21, 2010

Energy-efficient fireplaces, bothwood-burning and gas, let you enjoy the glow of a fire without letting yourhome heating energy go up in smoke.

A traditional wood-burning fireplace addswarmth and romantic ambience to a home's interior. But most are energy hogs,converting only 15% of wood's energy into useful heat. Fortunately, newenergy-efficient fireplace designs are helping wood-burning fireplaces achieveefficiency ratings of 75% or more. Fireplace inserts and gas fireplaces areeven more efficient.

Energy-efficient wood-burning fireplaces

If you're adding a wood-burning fireplace,avoid the standard design, which sends too much of your home's heated air upthe chimney. Consider these energy-efficient wood-burning fireplaces:

•Rumford fireplaces(http://www.rumford.com) feature a shallow box design that reflects more heatinto the room.

•EPA-rated fireplaces(http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/fireplacelist.html) have good performance and highenergy-efficiency ratings. They are designed to pull in outdoor air forcombustion, and circulate room air around the firebox to extract as muchuseable heat as possible. In addition, EPA-approved wood-burning fireplacesproduce much less air pollution than standard fireplaces.

•Fireplace inserts(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/save-money-with-fireplace-insert/) aresealed metal boxes designed to fit inside masonry fireplace openings. They useoutside air for combustion, and are designed to circulate and warm inside air.Inserts burn a variety of biomass fuels, including wood and pellets. Some unitsare rated at 80% efficiency.

If you already own a standard wood-burningfireplace, make it more energy efficient(http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/heating_cooling/fireplaces.html) byinstalling glass doors. Glass doors limit the amount of room air that is suckedinto the fireplace during combustion.

Glass doors work particularly well when a fire is burning down for the nightand you must leave the damper open. Otherwise, glass doors block radiant heat;keep them open when your fire is blazing. Expect to pay $300 to $500 for glassdoors, installed.

In California, glass or solid metal doors are required on all fireplaceopenings.

Energy-efficient gas fireplaces

If you want the convenience and lowmaintenance of a energy-efficient gas fireplace, you have two good options:

•Direct-vent gas fireplaces, which use two-way vents that supply outside air for combustion,have energy-efficiency ratings as high as 77%. That's better than the top gasfireplaces connected to a chimney.

•Vent-free gas fireplaces are even more energy-efficient because they don't send exhaustoutside. But they release a lot of moisture into inside indoor air.

Tax credits for fireplaces

Some types of fireplaces qualify for afederal tax credit (http://energystar.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/energystar.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=6531)of up to $1,500 until the end of 2010. After that, certain states(http://www.dsireusa.org/) may provide tax credits for various types ofenergy-efficiency improvements, including fireplaces.

Rich Binsacca is the author of 12 books on various home-related topics and iscurrently a contributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines. He haswritten articles for Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record, among severalothers. He intermittently uses the wood-burning fireplace and the gas-fueledfreestanding stove that came with his current home.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Chimney Maintenance for Warmth and Safety

2011-11-24T14:10:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Wendy Paris

Published: August 31, 2009

Chimney maintenance and a fireplaceinspection can make the difference between warm safety and drafty danger.

Your fireplace, the most low-tech piece ofequipment in your house, may seem like a simple load-and-light operation, butignoring annual maintenance can impair its performance, leading to heated air(and dollars) blowing out the chimney, harmful smoke inside, and possibly evena chimney fire.

The average number of annual U.S. homefires caused by fireplace, chimney, and chimney connectors between 2003 and2005 was 25,100, and the average costs for those fires was $126.1 million,based on the most recent statistics from the Chimney Safety Institute ofAmerica. That's roughly $5,024 in damage per home. Annual chimney maintenanceremoves flammable creosote, the major cause of chimney fires, and identifiesother performance problems.

Is it worth the $205 fee, two-hour servicecall, and all that ash possibly blackening your carpet? Here's what you need toknow to decide.

Annual inspections keep flames burning right

Creosote-combustible, tar-like droplets-isa natural byproduct of burning wood. The more wood you burn, the wetter orgreener the wood, and the more often you restrict airflow by keeping yourfireplace doors closed or your damper barely open, the more creosote isproduced.

Sootbuild-up, while not flammable, can hamper venting. One half-inch of soot canrestrict airflow 17% in a masonry chimney and 30% in a factory-built unit,according to the CSIA (http://www.csia.org). Soot is also aggressively acidicand can damage the inside of your chimney.

The more creosote and soot, the more likelyyou are to see signs of chimney fire-loud popping, dense smoke, or even flamesshooting out the top of your chimney into the sky. Chimney fires damage thestructure of your chimney and can provide a route for the fire to jump to the frameof your house.

"If the chimney is properlymaintained, you'll never have a chimney fire," says Ashley Eldridge, theeducation director of the CSIA.

Thebest way to ensure your chimney isn't an oil slick waiting to ignite? Get itinspected.

Three inspection levels let you choose what you need

A level-one inspection includes a visual check of the fireplace and chimney without anyspecial equipment or climbing up on the roof. The inspector comes to your housewith a flashlight, looks for damage, obstructions, creosote build-up, and soot,and tells you if you need a sweep. If so, he'll grab his brushes, extensionpoles, and vacuum, and do it on the spot.

"You should have it inspected everyyear to determine if it needs to be swept. An annual inspection will also coveryou if the neighbor's children have thrown a basketball in it, or a bird hasbuilt a nest," says Eldridge.

A level one typically runs about $125. Adda sweep, and you're talking another $80, or about $205 for both services,according to CSIA.

Consider a level-two inspection ifyou've experienced a dramatic weather event, like a tornado or hurricane; ifyou've made a major change to your fireplace; or bought a new house. Thisincludes a level-one investigation, plus the inspector's time to visit theroof, attic, and crawl space in search of disrepair. It concludes with a sweep,if necessary, and information on what repair is needed. The price will dependon the situation.

A level three inspection is considered "destructive and intrusive" and canresemble a demolition job. It may involve tearing down and rebuilding walls andyour chimney, and is usually done after a chimney fire. The cost will depend onthe situation.

Small steps canimprove your fireplace's efficiency

Besides the annual sweep, improve yourfireplace's functioning with responsible use.

          •Only burn dry, cured wood-logs thathave been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pileon top, but leave the sides open for air flow. Hardwoods such as hickory, whiteoak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood ismore important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pineburn well if sufficiently dry, but you'll need to add more wood to your firemore often, according to CSIA.
          •Wood, only wood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood,or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising your airquality. Log starters are fine for getting your fire going, but they burn veryhot; generally only use one at a time.
          •Close your damper when not using the fireplace to prevent warmindoor air-and the dollars you're spending to heat it-from rushing up thechimney.
          •On a factory-built, prefab wood-burning fireplace, keep bifold glassdoors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room.
          •Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow fromfalling into your chimney and to reduce downdrafts. The caps have side vents sosmoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainlesssteel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one available at most homeimprovement retailers because it won't rust, says Anthony Drago, manager ofAshleigh's Hearth and Home in Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
          •Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. "You canget a top-mounted damper that functions as a rain cap, too, an improvement overthe traditional damper because it provides a tighter closure," says CSIA'sEldridge.
          •Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in yourhouse-near the fireplace as well as in bedroom areas(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/emergency-preparedness/emergency-preparedness-kit/).
          •If you burn more than three cords of wood annually, get your chimneycleaned twice a year. A cord is 4-feet high, by 4-feet wide, by 8-feet long, orthe amount that would fill two full-size pick-up trucks.
          •To burn fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heatsand keeping your damper completely open to increase draw in the early stages.Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally-with the damper all the way open tohelp prevent smoke from lingering the fireplace and creosote from developing.

By the way, fireplaces aren't officiallyrated for energy efficiency because they're so varied. Depending on the sourceof information, they can be 10% to 30% efficient in converting fuel to heat.

No inspection will turn a masonry orfactory-built fireplace into a furnace, but it can improve efficiency somewhat,decrease the amount of heating dollars you're sending up the chimney, andincrease your enjoyment of your hearth time by reducing smoke. If a sweepingprevents a chimney fire, you're talking about the difference between anotherordinary January day, and the potential loss of your home, or even life.

WendyParis is a writer in New York currently living in a home with a very smokyfireplace that has set off the smoke detector more than once. After finishingthis article, she decided to schedule a chimney sweep. She's written for ThisOld House magazine, as well as for The New York Times and Salon.com.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Solutions to Common Wet-Basement Problems

2011-11-22T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Jeanne Huber

Published: March 09, 2011

Solving wet-basement problems is one of themost important things you can do to protect the value of your home and healthof your family.

Not only does a wet basement feel and smellnasty, it poses a great risk to your home's value. Left unchecked, basementmoisture can ruin floors and walls, encourage mold (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-thoughts/how-eliminate-mold-your-home/),even damage roofing.

Some wet basements are easy to cure simplyby clearing gutters(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/how-to-clean-rain-gutters/)and by diverting gutter water(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/replacing-rain-gutters-and-downspouts/)away from the foundation. But if the problem comes from other sources-waterflowing toward the house on the surface, seeping in from underground, orbacking up through municipal storm drains-you must take more aggressive action.

Here are eight strategies to keep water out of your basement.

1. Add gutter extensions

If downspouts(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/replacing-rain-gutters-and-downspouts/)are dumping water less than 5 feet away from your house, you can guide waterfarther out by adding plastic or metal gutter extensions.

But extensions aren't the neatest or mosteffective long-term solution, especially if you're likely to trip over them orrun over them with a lawn mower. Permanent, underground drain pipe is invisibleand capable of moving large quantities of gutter runoff much farther from yourhouse.

For about $10 a foot, a landscaper orwaterproofing contractor will dig a sloping trench and install pipe to carrythe water safely away.

2. Plug gaps

If you see water dribbling into thebasement through cracks or gaps around plumbing pipes(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/plumbing-leaks-reduce-stress-pipes-prevent-them/),you can plug the openings yourself with hydraulic cement or polyurethane caulkfor less than $20.

Plugs work when the problem is simply ahole that water oozes through, either from surface runoff or from wet soil. Butif the water is coming up through the floor, or at the joint where floor andwalls meet, the problem is groundwater, and plugs won't do the trick.

3. Restore the crown

If the gutters are working and you'veplugged obvious holes, but water still dribbles into your basement or crawlspace from high on foundation(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/foundations/understanding-foundation-problems/)walls, then surface water isn't draining away from the house as it should.
Your house should sit on a "crown" of soil that slopes at least 6inches over the first 10 feet in all directions.

Over time, the soil around the foundationsettles. You can build it back with a shovel and dirt. One cubic yard of awater-shedding clay-loam mix from a landscape supply house costs around $30(plus delivery) and is enough for a 2-foot-wide, 3-inch-deep layer along 57feet of foundation.

4. Reshape the landscape

Since your home's siding slightly overlapsits foundation, building up the crown could bring soil--and rot andtermites--too close to siding for comfort: 6 inches is the minimum safedistance. In that case, create a berm (a mound of dirt) or a swale (a wide,shallow ditch), landscape features that redirect water long before it reachesyour house.

In small areas, berms are easy; a landscapecontractor can build one for a few hundred dollars. On bigger projects, bermsmake less sense because you'll have to truck in too much soil. In that case,dig a swale (about $1,000). Once landscaping grows in, berms and swales can beattractive features in your yard.

5. Repair footing drains

If water is leaking into your basement lowon the walls or at the seams where walls meet the floor, your problem ishydrostatic pressure pushing water up from the ground.

First, check whether you have footingdrains, underground pipes installed when the house was built to carry wateraway from the foundation(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/foundations/understanding-foundation-problems/).(Look for a manhole or drain in the basement floor or a cleanout pipe capped afew inches above the floor.)

If the drains are clogged, open thecleanout and flush the pipes with a garden hose. If that doesn't work, aplumber with an augur can do the job for about $600.

6. Install a curtain drain

If you don't have working footing drains,install a curtain drain to divert water that's traveling underground towardyour house.

A type of French drain(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/drainage/french-drains-when-you-need-them/),a curtain drain is a shallow trench--2 feet deep and 1.5 feet across--filledwith gravel and perforated piping that intercepts water uphill of your houseand carries it down the slope a safe distance away.

If the drain passes through an area withtrees or shrubs, consider switching to solid pipe to reduce the risk of rootsgrowing into the piping and clogging it. Cost: $10 to $16 per linear foot.

7. Pump the water

If you can't keep subsurface water out,you'll have to channel it from the inside.

To create an interior drain system, saw achannel around the perimeter of the floor, chip out the concrete, and layperforated pipe in the hole. The pipe drains to a collection tank at thebasement's low spot, where a sump pump shoots it out the house.

Starting at about $3,000, an interiorsystem is the best and least disruptive option in an unfinished basement witheasy access. It's also a good choice if your yard is filled with maturelandscaping that digging an exterior drainage system would destroy.

8. Waterproof the walls

Installing an interior drainage system getsthe water out but doesn't waterproof the walls. For that, you need an exteriorsystem: a French drain(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/drainage/french-drains-when-you-need-them/)to relieve hydrostatic pressure and exterior waterproofing to protect thefoundation.

It's a big job that requires excavatingaround the house, but it may be the best solution if you have a foundation withnumerous gaps. It also keeps the mess and water outside, which may be the bestchoice if you don't want to tear up a finished basement.

The downside, besides a price tag that canreach $20,000, is that your yard takes a beating, and you may need to removedecks or walkways.

Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 booksabout home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for TheWashington Post. She solved her first drainage mystery when her family'sfrequent sneezing attacks led her to discover mildew coating the underside oftheir house's roof. Turns out basement flooding was to blame.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Essential Heating System Maintenance

2011-11-17T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Oliver Marks

Published: September 24, 2009

Getting your home's heating systemprofessionally serviced every year will keep it running smoothly and help keepheating costs under control.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"is usually a good rule-except when it comes to your heating system. Even ifit's humming along just fine, having a technician take it apart once a year to cleanthe lines and filters and give it a thorough inspection is absolutelyessential. Regular servicing reduces the risk of breakdowns and prolongs theunit's life. Plus, it saves you money: For every year of maintenance you skip,energy bills jump 5% to 10% because of reduced efficiency. Here's the lowdownon heating system maintenance.

Who does the job?

The simplest way to get the work done is tohire your fuel company to do it. Oil companies and gas utilities usuallyprovide this service, or you can hire the contractor who installed theequipment. Also, some plumbers

handle heating systems.

What is involved?

The technician will clean soot andcorrosion out of the combustion chamber where the fuel is burned, and check itfor leaks or damage. He'll inspect the flue pipe for open seams, clogs, orcorrosion that could cause carbon monoxide to backdraft into the house. He'llreplace the filters on oil and forced-air systems. Finally, he'll test theexhaust from your cleaned machine and use the information to adjust the burnerfor maximum efficiency.

How much will it cost?

You'll pay between $100 and $180 for theservice, depending largely on whether you have a gas system, which is easier tomaintain, or oil, which requires a fair amount of soot removal. Usually thecost is covered by an annual maintenance contract that also provides 24-houremergency service. While the technician is there, he should also service yourwater heater, assuming it has a separate oil or gas burner.

When is the best time to do the work?

Ideally, have your system tuned up in the fallso it's in top shape for the start of the heating season. Of course, that'swhen technicians are the busiest, so if you can't do it when you want, do itwhen you can-as long as your system is serviced once a year. And don't expectyour provider to call to remind you that it's time. Even if you subscribe to anannual service plan, you still need to call to make an appointment. Call in thespring or summer to be sure of getting on the schedule in the fall.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Seal Air Leaks Around Windows and Doors

2011-11-15T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Jeanne Huber
Published: December 14, 2010

Seal air leaks around your windows and doorsto prevent wasting precious home heating and cooling energy that costs youmoney.

An average home loses up to 30% of itsheating and cooling energy through air leaks(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/insulation/fixing-attics-air-leaks/).The most significant air leaks tend to occur around windows and doors. To stopair leaks and prevent your home heating and cooling dollars from vanishing inthe wind, it's important to seal any air leaks around windows and doors.

Check for air leaks

With windows and doors closed, hold a litstick of incense near window and door frames where drafts might sneak in(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/diy-home-energy-audit-6-easy-steps/).Watch for smoke movement. Note what sources need caulk, sealant, andweather-stripping.

Seal air leaks around windows

If you have old windows, caulking andadding new weatherstripping goes a long way toward tightening them up.

•Bronze weatherstripping ($12 for 17feet) lasts for decades but is time-consuming to install.

•Self-stick plastic types are easy toput on but don't last very long.

•Adhesive-backed EPDM rubber ($8 for10 feet) is a good compromise, rated to last at least 10 years.

Nifty gadgets called pulley seals ($9 apair) block air from streaming though the holes where cords disappear into theframes.

Seal air leaks around doors

Check for air leaks(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/insulation/basement-air-leaks/), andreplace old door weatherstripping with new.

•Foam-type tape has an adhesivebacking; it's inexpensive and easy to install. If it comes loose, reinforce itwith staples.

•Felt is either adhesive-backed orcomes with flexible metal reinforcement. it must be tacked or glued into place.It's cheap and easy to install, but it has low durability.

•Tubular rubber, vinyl, and siliconeweatherstripping is relatively expensive and tricky to install, but it providesan excellent seal. Some types come with a flange designed to fit into pre-cutgrooves in the jambs of newer doors; check your existing weatherstripping andreplace with a similar style.

Check exterior trim for any gaps betweenthe trim and your door frames, and the trim and your siding. Caulk gaps with anexterior latex caulk ($5 for a 10-ounce tube).

Seal door bottoms

If a draft comes in at the bottom, check thecondition of the threshold gasket. Replace worn gaskets. If you can seedaylight under the door, you may need to install a new threshold with a tallergasket ($25 for a 36-inch door). Or, install a weather-resistant door sweepdesigned for exterior doors ($9). Door sweeps attach directly to the door andare easy to install.> •Inspect weather stripping for peelsand gaps.

•Make sure hinges are tight and doorsfit securely in their thresholds.

Inspect skylights

Brown stains on walls under a skylight aretelltale signs that water is invading and air is escaping. Cut a small hole inthe stained drywall to check for wetness, which would indicate rot, or gaps inthe skylight.

To investigate skylight leaks, carefully climb on the roof and look for thefollowing:

•Open seams between flashing orshingles.

•Shingle debris that allows water tocollect on roofs.

•Failed and/or cracked cement patches put down the last time the skylightleaked.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

How to Inspect Windows, Doors to Stop Air and Water Leaks

2011-11-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: January 07, 2011

Inspect windows and doors regularly to stopair leaks and water seeps that create high energy and repair bills. We'll showyou how.

Take a look at windows, doors and skylights(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/windows-doors/window-replacement-tax-credit/)to stop air leaks, foil water drips, and detect the gaps and rot that let theoutside in and the inside out. You can perform a quick check with a home airpressure test, or do a detailed inspection(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/do-it-yourself-energy-audit/).Luckily, these inspections are easy to do. Here's how to examine the barriersthat should stand between you and the elements.

Big picture inspection

A home air pressure test sucks air into thehouse to reveal air leaks that increase your energy bills. To

inspect windowsand other openings:

•Seal the house by locking all doors,windows, skylights, and shutting all vents.

•Close all dampers and vents.

•Turn on all kitchen and bath exhaustfans.

•Pass a burning incense stick alongall openings--windows, doors, fireplaces, outlets--to pinpoint air rushing infrom the outside.

Windows and the outside world

Air and water can seep into closed widowsfrom gaps and rot in frames, deteriorating caulking, cracked glass, andclosures that don't fully close.

To stop air leaks, pinpoint window problems.

•Give a little shake. If they rattle,frames are not secure, so heat and air conditioning can leak out and rain canseep in. Some caulk and a few nails into surrounding framing will fix this.

•Look deep. If you can see the outsidefrom around--not through--the window, you've got gaps. Stop air leaks(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/insulation/basement-air-leaks/) bycaulking and weather stripping around frames.

•Inspect window panes for cracks.

•Check locks. Make sure double-hungwindows slide smoothly up and down. If not, run a knife around the frame andsash to loosen any dried paint. Tighten cranks on casement windows and checkthat top locks fully grab latches.

Door doubts

•Check doors for cracks that weakentheir ability to stop air leaks and water seeps.

•Inspect weather stripping for peelsand gaps.

•Make sure hinges are tight and doorsfit securely in their thresholds.

Inspect skylights

•Open seams between flashing orshingles.

•Shingle debris that allows water tocollect on roofs.

•Failed and/or cracked cement patches put down the last time the skylightleaked.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Attic Air Leaks: How to Find and Seal Them

2011-11-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Jeanne Huber

Published: December 14, 2010

Even if your attic floor is filled withadequate insulation, seal air leaks around pipes and other openings to preventwaste of energy and money.

You probably think of your ceilings assolid surfaces, but the truth is that ceilings leak air into unfinished atticspaces (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/planning-your-remodel/evaluate-your-house-attic-bedroom/)through gaps and openings, such as around pipes and lighting fixtures. Airleaking into your attic could be costing you money--up to 30% of a home'sheating and cooling energy (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/attics/heating-and-cooling-your-attic-remodel/)is lost due to air leaks. That's an annual $300 bite out of your wallet thatyou can prevent.

Find air leaks

From below your attic, check the ceilingsand note the locations of all light fixtures, ceiling fans, and electrical
outlets. From the attic-side of your ceiling, find the fixtures you noted.You'll have to pull back existing insulation to find them.

Electrical connections(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/do-you-need-electrical-service-upgrade/)for fixtures, fans, and outlets require a hole cutout in your ceiling drywall.Each of these cutouts is a likely air leak. You can stop air leaks by sealingthe cutouts from above with acrylic latex or silicone caulk, or withlow-expansion polyurethane foam, depending on the size of the gap.

Also check for anything that penetrates the ceiling:

•pipes

•vent stacks

•flues and chimneys(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/fireplaces-chimneys/chimney-inspection-facts/)

•electrical wiring

•heating and air conditioning ducts

•access hatch

Gaps around these locations should also besealed from above.

Plug large gaps

Low-expansion polyurethane foam in a can isgreat for plugging openings 1/4-inch to 3 inches wide, such as those aroundplumbing pipes(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/types-plumbing-pipes-and-their-lifespans/)and vents. A standard 12-ounce can ($5) is good for 250 feet of bead about halfan inch thick.

The plastic straw applicator seals shut within two hours of the first use, soto get the most mileage out of a can, squirt a lubricant such as WD-40 onto apipe cleaner and stuff that into the applicator tube between uses.

Plug small gaps

Caulk makes the best gap-filler foropenings less than 1/4-inch wide, such as those cut around electrical boxes.Silicone costs the most ($8 a tube) but works better next to nonporousmaterials, such as metal flashing, or where there are temperature extremes, asin attics. Acrylic latex caulk ($2 per tube) is less messy to work with andcleans up with water.

Seal air leaks around flues and chimneys

Building codes require that wood framing bekept at least one inch from metal flues and two inches from brick chimneys. Butthat creates gaps(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/what-type-energy-audit-right-you/)where air can flow through. Cover the gaps with aluminum flashing ($12) cut tofit and sealed into place with high-temperature silicone caulk ($20).

To keep insulation away from a hot flue pipe, form a barrier by wrapping acylinder of flashing around the flue, leaving a one-inch space in between. Tomaintain the spacing, cut and bend a series of inch-deep tabs in the cylinder'stop and bottom edges.

Weatherstrip the attic access hatch

A quarter-inch gap around pull-down atticstairs or an attic hatch leaks the same amount of air as a bedroom heatingduct. Seal it by caulking between the hatch frame and the rough opening, or byinstalling foam weatherstripping around the perimeter of the hatch opening. Or,you can buy a pre-insulated hatch cover kit for about $150.

Tips for working in attics

•Work on a cool day.

•Wear protective gear: disposableclothes, gloves, and a double-elastic mask or half-face respirator to protectyou from the insulation(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/insulation/attic-insulation-savings/).

•Bring along a droplight with afluorescent bulb, plus at least two pieces of plywood big enough to span two orthree joists to support you as you work.

•To save trips up and down a ladder,try to move up all of the materials you need before you get started.

One warning: If you find vermiculite insulation,hold off until you've had it checked for asbestos; your health department orair-quality agency can recommend a lab.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Air Leaks in Your Basement? How to Spot and Seal Them

2011-11-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Jeanne Huber
Published: December 14, 2010

Seal air leaks in your basement to stop theloss of your home heating energy.

A typical family spends about a third ofits annual heating and cooling budget-roughly $300-on air that leaks into orout of the house through unintended gaps and cracks(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/diy-home-energy-audit-6-easy-steps/).With the money you waste in just one year, you can plug many of those leaksyourself.

Don't overlook your basement(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/heating-cooling/heating-and-cooling-your-basement/)as a source of air leaks. Cold air can enter your basement through air leaksthat are both above and below ground. Air infiltrating your basement can besucked into your upstairs rooms, causing your furnace to work harder than itshould. The remedy is to look for air leaks in your basement and seal them.

Plug large gaps in basement walls

Low-expansion polyurethane foam in a can($10) is ideal for plugging openings 1/4-inch to 2 inches wide, such as thosearound plumbing pipes (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/plumbing-leaks-

reduce-stress-pipes-prevent-them/)and vents that pass through basement walls to the outside.

A standard 12-ounce can ($5) is good for 250 feet of bead about half an inchthick. After application, the foam slowly expands to about twice its size,making it a good choice for large cracks. After it dries, cut off excess foamwith a utility knife or putty knife.

The plastic straw applicator seals shut within two hours of the first use, soto get the most mileage out of a can, squirt a lubricant such as WD-40 onto apipe cleaner and stuff that into the applicator tube between uses.

Plug small gaps in basement walls

Caulk makes the best gap-filler foropenings less than 1/4-inch wide, such as those cut around electrical boxes.Silicone costs the most (about $8 a tube) and works well when sealing nonporousmaterials, such as metal flashing. Acrylic latex caulk ($2 to $4 a tube) isless messy to work with and cleans up with water. Use high-temperature caulkaround vent pipes that get hot, such as those for the furnace or water heater.

Seal air leaks where foundation meetsthe wall

In most older houses with basements, airseeps in where the house framing sits on the foundation(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/foundations/understanding-foundation-problems/).Spread a bead of caulk between the foundation and the sill plate (the woodimmediately above the foundation), and along the top and bottom edges of therim joist-the outermost piece of framing material that runs along the top ofthe sill plate.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles likethis. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OFREALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.

Conduct Your Own Energy Audit

2011-11-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Jane Hodges
Published: August 28, 2009

A do-it-yourself energy audit can teach youhow to be more energy efficient and make you a more-educated consumer shouldyou decide to hire an expert.

Self-starters don't necessarily need a proto assess their home's energy deficiencies. With a little elbow grease and oneof several free do-it-yourself guides to home energy auditing, you can get agood sense of where your home is leaking hot and cool air, and how your choiceof appliances and your energy use contributes to energy loss.

What you'll save on fixes

By following up on problems, you can lowerenergy bills by 5% to 30% annually, according to the U.S. Department ofEnergy's office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy(http://www.eere.energy.gov). With annual energy bills averaging $2,200,according to Energy Star (http://www.energystar.gov), investing in fixes orenergy-efficient replacement products could save you up to $660 within a year.

And self-audits can cost virtually nothingif you already own a flashlight, ladder, measuring stick, candles, eyeprotection, work clothes, dust mask, and a screwdriver-or roughly $150 if you'restarting from scratch. As for time commitment, expect to spend two to fourhours to investigate home systems, refer to utility bills, and conduct researchabout local norms for products, such as insulation, say experts.

Types of DIY audits

Since there are a variety of ways toconduct a do-it-yourself audit, you'll need to know your tolerance for thetasks involved.

Some require you play home inspector,climbing into attics and crawlspaces on fact-finding missions and delving intounfinished portions of your home to look at duct work. Questionnaire-basedaudits rely the assumption that you can answer such questions as how manygallons of water your toilet tank holds to the R-value (thickness) ofinsulation in your home.

If you don't have time to familiarizeyourself with your home's systems or confidence about diagnosing problems, aredisabled, are squeamish on ladders and in crawlspaces, or are already planningto invest in a major remodel, you may benefit from hiring a pro.

Even homeowners who complete a self-auditoften hire a professional to double-check their diagnoses. A self-audit mayreveal drafts but not their exact source, such as ducts or insulation, forinstance. Because the costs to address a draft can range from minor to major,investing in a paid audit may be justifiable.

What should you check?

All the home systems and appliances thatcontribute to energy costs. Here's the breakdown of a typical home's energyusage that Energy Star references:

          •Heating (29%)
          •Cooling (17%)
          •Water heating (14%)
          •Appliances (13%)
          •Lighting (12%)
          •Computers and electronics (4%)
          •Other (11%)

Self-audits hone in on details pros may not

While the pros use special equipment tofocus on hard-to-research aspects of a home's building envelope and indoor aircirculation, DIY audits can teach you-based on the questions they ask-toidentify and address the numerous small ways in which your home wastes energy.

Since lighting, electronics, and appliancescollectively account for nearly 30% of the average home's energy costs, you canmake an impact on your bills by replacing old appliances with energy-efficientreplacements and simple fixes-plugging appliances into power strips versus walloutlets, making sure refrigerator doors are properly sealed and don't leak air,and opting for a programmable thermostat.

How to spot commonenergy leaks

1. Check your home's exterior envelope-the windows, doors, walls, and roof exposed to outdoor air. Hold acandle or stick of incense near windows, doors, electrical outlets, rangehoods, plumbing and ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and ceiling fans inbathrooms. When smoke blows, you've got a draft from a source that may needcaulking, sealant, weather stripping, or insulation.

2. Check insulation R-value orthickness. Where insulation is exposed (in anattic, unfinished basement, or around ducts, water heaters, and appliances),use a ruler to measure, recommends the DOE. Compare your results against thosesuggested for your region via an insulation calculator (http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html).

Although examining in-wall insulation isdifficult, you can remove electrical outlet covers, turn off electricity, andprobe inside the wall, the DOE notes in its DIY audit guide. However, only aprofessional's thermographic scan can reveal if insulation coverage isconsistent within a wall. Insulation can settle or may not be uniformlyinstalled.

3. Look for stains on insulation. These often indicate air leaks from a hole behind the insulation,such as a duct hole or crack in an exterior wall.

4. Inspect exposed ducts. They may not work efficiently if they're dirty, have small holes,or if they pass through unfinished portions of the home and aren't insulated.Look for obvious holes and whether intersections of duct pipe are joinedcorrectly. Since ducts are typically made out of thin metal that easilyconducts heat, uninsulated or poorly insulated ducts in unconditioned spacescan lose 10% to 30% of the energy used to heat and cool your home, says DOE.

When should a professional make repairs?

The DOE recommends calling a contractorbefore insulating ducts in basements or crawlspaces, as doing so will makethese spaces cooler and could impact other home systems, such as water pipes.Plus, these ducts might release noxious air. DOE also recommends you hireprofessionals to clean ducts periodically. If you've noticed that some roomsget disproportionately hot or cold, bring that to a pro's attention. It couldbe duct related.

In addition, some DIY audits-like the City of Seattle's free online audit guide(http://www.seattle.gov/light/printdocs/DoItYourselfHome.pdf), suggest hiring apro if you suspect asbestos materials have been used in insulation or aroundpipes, ducts, or heating equipment. Airborne or crumbling asbestos particlesare a health hazard. And a pro might be the right choice when dealing withinsulation around or near electrical or examining electrical systems with barewires.

A self-audit, like a paid audit, serves as a jumping-off point to help you setpriorities(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/prioritize-tasks-after-an-energy-audit/)for making your home more efficient. Whether or not you choose to make repairsyourself, one thing's for sure: You'll come away knowing more about your home'sstrengths and weaknesses than you did before.

Jane Hodges has written about real estatefor more than half of her 16-year journalism career, for publications includingMSNBC.com, Seattle Magazine, The Seattle Times, and The Wall Street Journal. In2007 she won a Bivins Fellowship from the National Association of Real EstateEditors to pursue a book on women and real estate. Her work has also appearedin The New York Times, CBS's BNET, and Fortune. She lives in Seattle in a 1966raised rancher with an excellent retro granite fireplace. Latest home project:remodeling a basement bathroom.

Little-Known Ways to Green Clean Your Bathroom for Pennies

2011-10-27T09:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Alyson McNutt English
Published: December 10, 2010

Green cleaners can be eco-friendly and kindto your wallet. Here are six ways to shine your bathroom for pennies.

Commercial green cleaners can kill yourbudget as you save the planet: that's why they're called "green." Butnot all eco-friendly cleaners (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/green-clean-sinks-drains-shine-em-up-clean-em-out/)cost a lot. We've found store-bought green cleaners and everyday pantryproducts that will scour your bathroom for pennies per gallon.

So don't throw dollars down the drain asyou become chemically independent. Try these green cleaners(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/green-clean-countertops-keep-food-prep-safe-chemicals/);they're kind to the environment and to your wallet.

Toilet transformers

Commercial toilet(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/saving-water-with-high-efficiency-toilet/)bowl cleaners contain poisons that can literally take your breath away--bleach,ammonia, hydrochloric acid, and naphthalene.

Instead of using toxic substances, add halfa cup of a green all-purpose cleaner, like Biokleen's

(http://biokleenhome.com/node/55)(12 cents/oz), to the toilet, then sprinkle in an ounce of baking soda (6cents/oz) into the bowl. Cost: 60 cents/flush.

If you want extra bleaching power, usehydrogen peroxide (87 cents/oz) as an all-purpose cleaner. Fill a dark spraybottle with 1:1 water/hydrogen peroxide. Spray directly on toilet seats oraround the rim. Brush and flush. Cost: 87 cents/flush.

Drains de-clogged

Instead of pouring industrial-grade acidsdown your drain (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/green-clean-sinks-drains-shine-em-up-clean-em-out/)to dissolve hairballs, pour in a half-cup of baking soda (6 cents/oz) followedwith a half-cup of vinegar (5 cents/oz). Cover for at least 30 minutes, andthen flush with boiling water. Cost: 44 cents/treatment.

If rock-hard clogs resist the bakingsoda-vinegar method, try an enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle(http://www.naturemakesitwork.com/home/index.php) (19 cents/oz), which containseco-friendly microbes that eat away clogs. Cost: 28 cents/clog.

Or you could push it out with a plunger.Cost: $5.

Sinks and vanity solutions

Green clean scum and toothpaste-coveredsinks(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/green-clean-sinks-drains-shine-em-up-clean-em-out/)and vanities with hot water and a natural dishwashing soap like Mrs. Meyer's(http://www.mrsmeyers.com/Products/Household_Cleaners/Lavender_Liquid_Dish_Soap)(28 cents/oz). Cost: 56 cents/wash.

To disinfect, make a soft scrub mix madefrom Women's Voices for the Earth's green all-purpose cleaner recipe(http://www.womensvoices.org/our-work/safe-cleaning-products/learn-more/green-cleaning-recipes/).Cost: 80 cents/16 oz.

Or make a creamy soft scrub mix of bakingsoda, castile soap, glycerin, and essential fragrance oils that will foam upand clean away dirty sink and vanity problem. Cost: $3/20 oz.

You can use the soft-scrub mix all over thehouse, and castile soap (40 cents/oz) can double as a body wash or shampoo.

Mirror and glass miracles

White vinegar (5 cents/oz) will green cleanglass(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/green-window-cleaning-makes-glass-pane-fully-clear/)and mirrors. Add a quarter cup of vinegar to a 32-ounce spray bottle, and thenfill with distilled water (less than 1 cent/oz), which doesn't have tap water'smurky-making minerals. Cost: 2.4 cents/40 spritzes.

Spray on and wipe with microfiber cloths,which are washable, reusable, and much less messy than newspaper or papertowels. Your mirrors will be streak-free for significantly less money than ifyou used a chemical glass cleaner.

Green clean grout

A soft-scrub mix of baking soda, castilesoap, and essential oils will green clean the dirt, mold, and scum that darkenstile(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/glass-tile-ceramic-tile-bathroom-flooring-unlimited-designs/)grout. Cost: 15 cents/application.

A mop bucket of vinegar-based (5 cents/oz)all-purpose cleaner will make tile floors shine. And borax can green clean moldfrom shower tile and grout. Mix one cup of borax/1 gallon of water. Scrub witha stiff-bristled brush. Cost: 45 cents/bucket.

Alyson McNutt English writes about green cleaning in magazines and online. Shebuys her baking soda and vinegar in bulk.

Energy-Saving Projects to Strengthen Family Ties, Reduce Stress

2011-10-24T08:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon

Published: October 04, 2011

Include the family in these energy-saving,kid-friendly home maintenance tasks, and you'll reduce stress whilestrengthening family ties.

For some home owners, regular homemaintenance (http://www.houselogic.com/maintenance-repair/) is a chore andbore. But for Dr. Michael Warren, cleaning gutters and demolishing walls arefamily bonding experiences and stress reducers.

"Fixing up your home is a perfect wayto take your mind off your problems or stress," the doctor says in hiscolumn (http://galvestondailynews.com/story/262482"rel="nofollow") for a Texas newspaper.

WeHouseLogic editors agree. And since October is Energy Awareness Month, we thinkbuttoning up your home for winter is a great way to chillax, spend some qualitytime with family, and help your kids to become more energy aware. Here's how.

Hunt for air leaks

Air leaks(http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/air-leaks/) around windows and doorssuck out heat in winter and drive up energy bills - a good lesson to learnyoung. Light an incense stick and let the kids wave it along window and doorframes,electrical outlets, recessed lights and attic access doors and hatches. Whenthe smoke wavers, air is leaking from the house.

Caulk and weather strip

Kids will love plugging air leaks byspreading goopy caulk along door and window frames. They can also help you fixleaky windows(http://www.houselogic.com/blog/saving-energy/got-leaky-windows-3-low-cost-tips-fix-them/)by applying peel-and-stick weather stripping along doors, windows and attichatches.

Clean HVAC (http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/hvac/)filters

Teach your kids how to remove, clean andreplace reusable HVAC filters, an easy but essential maintenance task. They canvacuum dust from filters, or spray clean them in a utility sink. Make surefilters are dry and in good shape before reinstalling.

Ifyou're replacing paper filters, teach kids how to shop for new ones. Show themhow different filters address different tasks. For instance, HEPA filters areparticularly good at filtering allergens from the air.

Vacuum grills and vents

Stage a hunt for heating grills and vents, andthen let the kids vacuum off dust and dirt that makes your HVAC system workharder than it should.

Review monthly bills

Show your kids the energy bills, andcompare how many weeks of allowance it would take to pay, say, the gas bill.Compare different months, so kids can see how price fluctuates with energy use.

Have a contest to see how much money yourfamily can save (http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/money-saving-ideas/) byreducing consumption. Put savings into a vacation or movie night fund.

What home projects have you done withyour kids or family?

Understanding Landlord Insurance

2011-10-20T10:00:00.000-07:00

Article From BuyAndSell.HouseLogic.com

By: Dona DeZube
Published: September 01, 2010

Turning your home into a rental or buying aninvestment property? Expect to pay up to 20% more for the right insurancepolicy to protect your property.

If you think a homeowners insurance policywill cover you when you turn your current home into a rental property or buy aninvestment property, think again.

Rental properties require their own type ofcoverage--landlord insurance, which is different than the homeowners policy youbuy when you live in a house yourself. Landlord insurance protects you againstlosses from fire, lighting, falling trees, wind and hail, water damage, andinjury to your tenants and their guests.

But it doesn't cover the renters' household goods. So encourage tenants to buya renters policy to cover their stuff. You can even include a clause in yourlease saying they have to buy renters insurance, so everyone is clear aboutwhat's insured and what's not.

Landlord insurance is expensive

You'll pay 15% to 20% more for a landlordinsurance policy than you will for a homeowners policy on the same house--andeven more if you offer short-term rentals. Start your policy shopping bycalling the

company that sold you your homeowners insurance, then check with anindependent insurance agent selling commercial and business policies.

Ask how you can get discounts if you havefire prevention devices, burglar alarms, or multiple properties.

What a landlord insurance policy probably will cover:

•Lightning, windstorm, hail,explosion, riot and civil commotion, smoke, falling objects, snow, ice, sleet,vandalism, sonic boom, sprinkler leakage, frozen pipes, water damage, burglary,volcanoes, and sinkholes.

•Things that belong to you that stayat the property, like appliances, furniture, or lawn care equipment. Keep aninventory(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/compile-home-inventory-right-tools/) ofwhat's on site.

•Outbuildings, like sheds or garages,although this coverage will have its own limit (probably 10% of the overallinsurance policy amount).

•Costs to defend yourself againstlawsuits filed by tenants or guests, as well as the costs awarded if you losethe case. Some policies cover medical bills for injuries; some don't.

•Lost rental income if the property isdamaged and you can't rent it.

What a landlord insurance policyprobably won't cover:

•The tenants' belongings.

•Your rental property if it's vacantfor more than 30 days. Seek an exemption in advance from your landlordinsurance company as soon as you know the property is going to be vacant.

•War and nuclear, biological,chemical, or radiological attacks.

Optional coverage you might want to buy:

•Flood

•Earthquake

•Vandalism (if the policy you buyexcludes it)

•Pool and tennis court insurance

•Liability for personal injury,wrongful eviction, wrongful entry, libel, and slander

Don't forget liability coverage

To cover yourself in case you lose a bigcourt case filed by an injured tenant, buy an umbrella insurance policy(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/cost-umbrella-insurance-homeowners/) thatgives you liability protection for $1 million to $5 million or more if you havea lot of assets to protect.

Don't file a claim unless you absolutely have to

There's a limit to how many claims(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/homeowners-insurance-to-claim-or-not-to-claim/)you can file before insurance companies start charging you more or cancelingyour policies. Claims can quickly add up as you buy more rental properties.

One time you always want to file a claim iswhen someone says they've been injured on your property. One claim you'll wantto avoid filing: water damage for less than $10,000 because worries about moldgrowing in water-damaged properties will lead some insurers to immediatelycancel your insurance policy.

More from HouseLogic

How to Correct Your Clue Insurance Report(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/how-to-correct-your-clue-insurance-report/)

Improve Your Insurance Score(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/improve-your-insurance-score/)

Other web resources

Renters Insurance Brochure to Share withYour Tenants (http://www.iii.org/brochures/renters-insurance.html)

DonaDeZube, HouseLogic's News Editor, has been writing about real estate for overtwo decades. She lives in a suburban Baltimore 1970s rancher on a 3-acre lotshared with possums, raccoons, foxes, a herd of deer, and her blue-tick hound.

Adding a Fireplace: Return on Investment

2011-10-17T13:19:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Rich Binsacca

Published: September 22, 2010

Installing a fireplace is a popular project,but don't expect a significant return on your investment.

With costs ranging up to $10,000 for atraditional brick hearth and mantel, installing a fireplace is a seriousinvestment. If you're wondering if you'll get a return on that investment, theanswer is: probably not.

While intangible benefits such as comfortand ambience may make a fireplace addition worth the cost for you, consumerattitudes toward fireplaces are changing. Here are the facts:

Fireplaces no longer are preferred features

•In 2007, the National Association ofREALTORS® survey of homebuyers' preferences listed fireplaces as themost preferred home feature. Almost 46% of homebuyers said they would pay extra(a median of $1,220) for a house with at least one fireplace, the most popular"desired feature" in the survey.

However, more recent surveys fromthe National Association of Homebuilders show that support is slipping, andREALTOR® Magazine recently put fireplaces No. 1 on the listof"Home Fads That Are Falling Out of Style." (http://styledstagedsold.blogs.realtor.org/2009/01/21/home-fads-that-are-falling-out-of-style/)That means chances of receiving price support for your fireplace addition whenyou sell your home are diminishing.

•According to the U.S. Census Bureau(http://www.census.gov/const/C25Ann/sftotalfireplaces.pdf" "_blank),53% of new homes built in 2008 included at least one fireplace. That's downfrom a peak of 66% in 1990, although the numbers may also reflect builders'attempts to save costs for development houses.

•A fireplace isn't calculatedseparately in a professional home appraisal, making it difficult to assignincreased value from your investment.

Match your fireplace budget to your house

When you estimate how much a fireplacemight add to the value of your house, consider your home's overall value. A$10,000 fireplace holds its value in a $1 million house because buyers expectthis feature in an upscale home. But a $10,000 fireplace might not be such acrucial component of a $100,000 house, especially if features that potential buyersconsider more important are lacking.

Get value from your fireplace investment

•Put a new fireplace in a room otherthan the kitchen--usually the family room or great room.

•Locate a fireplace in a smaller,easy-to-heat room such as an office, guest bedroom, or master bedroom.

•Equip your fireplace withenergy-efficient glass doors and an exterior venting system that preventsheated air from being pulled out of rooms.

Rich Binsacca is the author of 12 books onvarious home-related topics and is currently a contributing editor for Builderand EcoHome magazines. He has written articles for Remodeling, Home, andArchitectural Record, among several others. He intermittently uses thewood-burning fireplace and the gas-fueled freestanding stove that came with hiscurrent home.

World Habitat Day: Habitat for Humanity Dedicates 500,000th House

2011-10-12T11:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 04, 2011

HouseLogic salutes Habitat for Humanity onWorld Habitat Day.

Congratulations to Habitat For Humanity(http://www.habitat.org/gov/take_action/world_habitat_day.aspx), which iscelebrating today's United Nation's World Habitat Day(http://www.unhabitat.org/categories.asp?catid=669) by dedicating its 500,000thhouse, this one in Kenya, and beginning construction on its 500,001st house,that one in flood-ravaged Paterson, N.J.

For the next six weeks, Habitat forHumanity will spotlight the world need for safe, decent, and affordableshelter. The group also will launch its 28th annual Jimmy & Rosalynn CarterWork Project, where volunteers will build 100 earthquake-resistant homes inLéogâne, Haiti, the epicenter of the devastating 2010earthquake.

HouseLogic salutes Habitat for Humanity forsupporting home ownership (http://www.houselogic.com/support-home-ownership/)!

Have you ever worked on a Habitat house? Whatwas your experience like?

Conference a Big Step to Elevate Housing in Our Fight for Economy

2011-10-10T08:30:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Matt Dornic
Published: October 03, 2011

The White House has hosted its fair shareof summits since President Obama took office. There have been open-doorcollaborations on community colleges, Israel, entrepreneurship, job creation,health care, bullying in schools. Heck, the president even hosted a beer summitin the summer of 2009. But as home owners struggle to overcome marketuncertainty and financial hardships, the one glaring issue that's failed to getits day in the spotlight is housing.

Last month alone, some 200,000-plusforeclosure (http://www.houselogic.com/guide/foreclosure-faq/) filings werereported as a growing roster of proposed regulations and possible legislationloom over those of us who've pursued the American dream through the purchase ofa home, or would like to. And just this summer, President Obama said hisadministration would be"going back to the drawing board" afterconceding that the housing market was faltering.

Sowhy isn't there more emphasis on an issue that many would argue is the heartand soul of the U.S. economy?

That's exactly what House Democrats asked whenthey recently called on the administration to provide a briefing on the WhiteHouse's new housing plan. Originally denied, the lawmakers' request to meetwith a top housing official was granted last week, after members of Congressexpressed their frustration with Obama's lack of focus on the housing market.

"The administration has been AWOL onthis issue," said Rep. Dennis Cardoza (D-CA). "And the Americanpeople are suffering because of mismanagement."

While House Dems were working to convince theWhite House to share its strategy for resolving the nation's real estate woes,industry leaders began taking matters into their own hands. Think tanks e21 andthe Progressive Policy Institute (http://progressivepolicy.org/) rallied thecountry's top experts on housing policy and housing finance to participate inan Oct. 4 meeting, "New Solutions for America's Housing Crisis."

Slated as a way to elevate housing as acritical piece of the national debate on economic recovery, the conference isexpected to bring together more than 100 members of the Washington policycommunity, including Hill staff, thought leaders and academics, industry reps,and press.

HouseLogic will be on hand to cover theevent. It's safe to assume that the group will tackle at least four topics thatare threatening home ownership and stalling America's economic revival:mortgage interest deduction (MID)(http://www.houselogic.com/blog/home-thoughts/mortgage-interest-deduction-super-committee/),the 20% down payment proposal, reform of Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and changesto the FHA's loan programs.

Despite the best efforts of some lawmakersand industry influencers, the road to housing recovery will remain unpavedwithout the full participation and collaboration of Congress, constituents,housing experts, and the Obama administration. It's time for Washington to showsome support for the nation's 75 million home owners by addressing thedangerous regulations and proposed legislation that would further cripple thealready-fragile housing market - and by default, the country's economy.

So, is a conference on housing the answer?Of course not. But it's a step in the right direction and a signal to Americathat the administration is taking the issue seriously.

Tostay on top of these and other important housing issues, "Like"HouseLogic on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/houselogic), follow us onTwitter (http://www.twitter.com/houselogic), and sign up for HouseLogicnewsletters by filling out the form at the top right corner of your screen.

Ways to Solve the Housing Crisis

2011-10-07T10:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Dona DeZube
Published: October 05, 2011

A group of lawmakers and industry expertsfrom both sides of the aisle got together in Washington, D.C., yesterday --brought together by think tanks Progressive Policy Institute and e21 -- andcame up with some pretty interesting ideas for solving the housing market'swoes.

A group of lawmakers and industry expertsfrom both sides of the aisle got together in Washington, D.C., yesterday -brought together by think tanks Progressive Policy Institute(http://progressivepolicy.org/) and e21 (http://economics21.org/) - and came upwith some pretty interesting ideas for solving the housing market's woes.

Some of the ideas floated during the NewSolutions for America's Housing Crisis conference were really novel, likereducing student loan payments so young people have more money to put toward ahome purchase. Others have been floating around for a while, like finding a wayto help home owners refinance when they owe more than their homes are worth.

The panelists, including Sens. Jeff Merkley(D-Ore.) and Johnny Isakson (R-Ga.), Rep. Dennis Cardoza (D-Calif.), ZillowChief Economist Stan Humphries, NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®President Ron Phipps, Mortgage Bankers Association CEO David Stevens, and theCenter for Responsible Lending's Executive Vice President Ellen Schloemeroffered up even more suggestions:

1. Streamline government programs that helpfinancially troubled home owners and expand the federal Making Home Affordable(http://www.makinghomeaffordable.gov/pages/default.aspx) mortgage help programso that creditworthy home owners who owe their mortgage lender more than their homeis worth can refinance to take advantage of today's low interest rates.

2. Provide down payment vouchers of $2,500 for single taxpayers and $5,000 formarried people to help first-time home buyers get into starter homes.

3. Offer shared appreciation mortgage modifications for home owners who owemore than their homes are worth. With a share appreciation modification, thelender agrees to forgive the difference between what the home owner owes andwhat the house is worth. In exchange, the lender gets a set proportion (usually25%) of any future home price appreciation.

4. To reduce the number of foreclosed homes being held by the government'smortgage market giants - FHA(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/issues-affecting-home-owners/fha-support/),Fannie Mae, and Freddie Mac - sell foreclosed homes to investors either in bulkdeals where hundreds of homes are sold in a single deal, or one house at a timeto small investors.

5. Make financing available to small investors. Right now, about 90% of mortgagescome through Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, or FHA. Opening these loan programs tosmall investors would help investors buy foreclosed homes and turn them intoproductive rental properties.

6. End the current Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac practice of charging extra feesto creditworthy home owners who want to refinance but don't have a lot ofequity and to home buyers who can only put down a small down payments.

7. Put a stop to proposed regulations that will raise the cost of mortgageswhen home owners have down payments of less than 20%. A proposed regulationcalled the "qualified residential mortgage" rule will make it moreexpensive to finance or refinance a home with a down payment below 20%, even ifyou use private mortgage insurance (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-loans-mortgages/private-insurance-for-mortgage).

8. Create national rules about the best way to handle home owners who can'tmake their monthly payments. Banks, faced with class action lawsuits and angrystate attorneys general, would like the federal government to make consistentrules about the fairest way to manage loans when borrowers stop makingpayments. Now they're dealing with rules from different states and even localgovernments, which are passing laws about servicing loans.

9. The best idea of all came from Richard Smith, president and CEO of RealogyCorp., in Parsippany, N.J., which owns such brands as Century 21, ColdwellBanker, ERA, and Sotheby's International Realty. His suggestion: Start with acohesive government policy that defines how and why we, as a nation, supporthome ownership (http://www.houselogic.com/support-home-ownership/). Once you'veestablished that home ownership's family, community, and national economicbenefits make it worthy of federal support, it becomes easier to remove thecurrent roadblocks slowing the real estate recovery.

What do you think of these ideas as ways tojump-start the housing market?

We Need to Quit Dancing Around the Housing Crisis

2011-10-06T09:00:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Dona DeZube

Published: October 05, 2011

Instead of a marginal approach, it's time toaddress housing market issues head on.

In his Wall Street Journal blog yesterday,Dow Jones Newswires Managing Editor Neal Lipschutz summed up in one sentencehow I feel about the U.S. economy: "In the end, we can't dodge housing(http://blogs.wsj.com/economics/2011/10/04/we-cant-ignore-housing-anymore/)."

We need President Obama and Congress tostep up with real plans to clean up messiness on everything from foreclosure totight mortgage lending standards. Says Lipschutz: "There's housing,traditionally the leader out of recession, still generally in decline, andharder to ignore . . . It's time to stop trying to work around housing, andtake it on."

Housing is at the core of who we are asAmericans. And until we feel secure about ourselves as home owners, we're nevergoing to feel confident about our economy. Until everything is back to normalin housing, nothing can get back to normal in the economy.

Yup, we can't dodge housing.

How to Help Expand Waste Recycling Programs

2011-10-05T13:05:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Sue Mellen
Published: February 05, 2010

Using tips and resources from the experts,work with local government to expand waste recycling programs in yourcommunity.

Most neighborhoods and communities haveprograms for recycling plastic and paper. But what about the whole range ofother materials filling your local landfill? Increasing the amount and types ofhousehold waste that can be recycled can help preserve your community'sprecious open space and natural resources, and save your town money now spenton landfilling trash.

Point your city or town toward acost-effective, expanded waste recycling program, and you may be putting moregreen in your own pocket as you protect property values.

Recycling programs(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/5-programs-improving-local-waste-recycling/)that go beyond the standard paper-plastic-cans variety can help preserve thenatural resources that help attract new residents and protect property valuesin your community. Such programs can also reduce the cost of rubbish haulingfor both municipalities and community associations, according to the U.S.Environmental Protection Agency.

As an individual homeowner, you can have a major impact on the size and shapeof your local recycling program. Of course, in these days of reduced municipaltax income, you may have to try a number of alternative approaches to get yourlocal officials' to increase recycling options, but the result should be wellworth your effort.

"One of the best things individuals can do is to become champions forexpanded recycling programs. It's amazing how much you can accomplish in ashort space of time," says Jacob Hassan, an EPA environmental scientist.

Pat Cosby of Columbus, Ga., is a perfect example(http://earth911.com/blog/2009/01/26/how-one-man-started-a-recycling-program/)of individual success in influencing recycling programs. Working with a localrecycler, the media, and city officials, he launched a Christmas wrapping paperrecycling program that aims to take in more than 1,000 pounds of paper everyholiday season. His story proves that individuals really can dramaticallyimpact recycling programs in their own communities.

How to become a champion

Hassan points out that, as electedofficials, municipal leaders are often more approachable than you'd think. Ifyou follow a few simple steps, you can convince them that an expanded recyclingprogram would benefit the community and improve their own chances of beingre-elected. And it can all be accomplished with a minimum expenditure of time,effort, and money.

Come to your meeting with the mayor, city council, or board of selectmen armedwith details. You should know:

Which materials will have the greatest impact on the environment, while alsoproviding an improved revenue stream from buyers of recycled materials. Forexample, metals like copper and aluminum can often yield dependably high marketprices for a community. For a quick reference guide to materials and theirmarket value, download this PDF(http://www.epa.gov/waste/partnerships/wastewise/pubs/howtopdf.pdf) provided bythe EPA.

How to access the resources municipalities need to develop an expandedprogram. For example, the EPA provides a Municipal Government Toolkit(http://www.epa.gov/region4/waste/rcra/mgtoolkit/improving.html#remind) withstep-by-step instructions for expanding and improving municipal programs.

How to resolve issues blocking the way to expanded programs. If you livein a remote area or small town, where the cost of transporting recycledmaterials is high, suggest developing a cooperative hauling arrangement withother towns in the area. Or, advise officials to include incentives fortransportation services in the town's next hauling contract.

Team up with other groups

Within every community, there are groupsactively working to promote green efforts in all their forms-includingrecycling. Three national organizations with whom you might join forces to helplobby local officials are The Sierra Club (http://www.sierraclub.org/),Conservation International (http://www.conservation.org/Pages/contact_us.aspx),and TakePart (http://web3.takepart.com/issues/recycling/13874). All areexperienced recycling activists.

Of course, the ultimate partnership is probably with the EPA, whose WasteWise(http://www.epa.gov/osw/partnerships/wastewise/index.htm) partnership programaims to reduce municipal waste. Working with 1,700 businesses, institutions,and local governments, the program has reduced solid waste by 120 million tonssince its inception in 1994.

Bring along an expert

You can't expect local officials to beexperts in waste management. Consider bringing along to your meeting anenvironmental scientist or waste management expert who can explain some of thescience behind program expansion. One place to find such experts is your localuniversity.

"An environmental scientist can explain the trade-offs and costs of eitherexpanding, or not expanding, a program," comments Myrna Hall, researchassociate and director of the Center for the Urban Environment, College ofEnvironmental Science and Forestry, State University of New York at Syracuse."Just last week my husband and I testified at a local hearing for acompany that turns waste into energy."

By following these steps, and with very little time or financial commitment,you can promote expanded recycling in your community, making it a moreattractive place to live, the first step toward increasing your propertyvalues. Although lean city coffers may mean you'll have to expend a little moreeffort, your government relations work should pay off in the end.

Sue Mellen is a longtime writer and editor who splits her time between atownhome in Massachusetts and a bungalow in a deed-restricted neighborhood inFlorida.

Low-Flow Toilets: How to Choose

2011-09-30T09:45:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser
Published: September 04, 2009

Replacing an old water-guzzler with a newlow-flow toilet can shave as much as $90 off your annual utility bill and sendthousands fewer gallons of water down the drain.

A lot has changed since 1994, when low-flowtoilets became the law of the land. Early versions created a bit of a stink,because while they were good at saving water-using only 1.6 gallons per flushversus as many as 7 gallons-they weren't necessarily good at doing a toilet'smain job.

Today's low-flow models don't have thoseproblems. Not only are they much better performers, some also use even lesswater than the federal standard. So if you're in the market for a new throne,it pays to consider a high-efficiency toilet (HET). You'll save a bundle:According to the EPA, replacing pre-1994 guzzlers with new HETs will shave morethan $90 off your annual utility bills. Plus, you'll be sending thousands fewergallons a year down the drain.

Look for high performers

The EPA's WaterSense(http://www.epa.gov/WaterSense/) label on the box identifies HETs that havebeen certified by independent laboratories. They're rated according to MaximumPerformance (MaP) testing protocols, which measure the toilets' ability toremove waste. MaP scores range from 250 to 1,000, based on the number of gramscompletely evacuated in a single flush. The EPA has adopted 350 grams as itsminimum performance threshold, and "anything over 500 is very good,"says Terry Love, a plumber in Washington state who conducts his own thoroughtesting of low-flow toilets.

Choose a flush mechanism

Like standard low-flow toilets, HETs comewith different flush options. The one you choose depends on how"green" you want to be, how much you're willing to spend, and yourtolerance for noise. Most residential toilets in the U.S. are gravity-flush,which, as the term implies, relies on the weight of water flowing into the bowlto help remove waste. Pressure-assist toilets compress air at the top of thetank to increase flush velocity, so they can do the job with as little as 0.8gallons of water. While this turbocharged action makes for a powerful flush,the loud whoosh! may cause small children to jump out of their socks.(Somewhat counterintuitively, these also require good household water pressureto work properly.)

Some low-flow designs, like the minimalistKohler Hatbox-so streamlined that it doesn't even have a tank-flush with theaid of an electric pump. While that delivers a powerful flush without thenoise, unlike a standard toilet it requires electricity, which can make formore complicated installation and costlier maintenance.

Calculate your savings

Toilets account for about 27% of ahousehold's indoor water usage, so trading up to a high-efficiency toilet canyield big savings. According to the EPA, a family of four that replaces itshome's older toilets with WaterSense-labeled models will, on average, save morethan $90 per year in reduced water bills and $2,000 over the lifetime of thetoilets. You can pocket even more by taking advantage of rebates and vouchers(http://www.toiletrebate.com/) offered by many states and municipalities. Thecity of Austin, Texas, (http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/watercon/sftoilet.htm) forexample, gives residents up to three HETs for free, though there is a modestfee for certain design features, such as an elongated bowl or a seat that meetsthe ADA-required height of 17 inches.

And, of course, you'll be saving a lot ofwater. Pre-1994 toilets send between 3.5 and 7 gallons down the drain withevery flush. For a family of four, that adds up to about 76 gallons a day. Andif the toilet leaks-that is, if it continues to run after you've flushed orsometimes trickles mysteriously on its own-it could be chugging up to 200 extragallons daily.

To maximize water savings, consider adual-flush HET. The tank has two buttons that let you choose between a halfflush and a full flush, depending on whether liquid or solid waste needs to godown. Caroma, a brand made in Australia (where dual-flush is mandatory),started selling these in the U.S. about a decade ago and offers nearly a dozendual-flush lines.

Do some comparison shopping

The good news is that all this efficiencycomes at a reasonable price-about $200 on average, no more than a conventionallow-flow toilet. Keep in mind that price doesn't always guarantee quality orcorrelate to MaP score. Before you make a purchase, check consumer reviews forspecific models, noting track records for maintenance and common gripes thatcrop up about specific brands. Once you find a model you like, it's easy tocompare prices at Web sites such as pricegrabber.com(http://www.pricegrabber.com), shopzilla.com (http://www.shopzilla.com), andnextag.com (http://www.nextag.com) (be sure to factor in shipping and returnpolicies). Certain features, such as elongated bowls and high-tech finishes likeToto's SanaGloss, might add 20% to the price, but considering how long it willbe until you buy your next toilet, that extra bit of ease and comfort isquickly amortized.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributingeditor to Interior Design magazine, a former editor at This Old House Magazine,and co-author of The Official eBay Guide. She recently cut her water bill inhalf by replacing all the water-guzzling toilets in her home with HETs.

Start a Shared Tool Co-op

2011-09-22T12:32:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Carl Vogel
Published: March 09, 2010

Save money and have access to a trulystunning tool collection by starting a neighbor-to-neighbor lending program ora tool library.

The amount you save by borrowing a tablesaw the two or three times a year you need it, rather than buying one, is sogreat that neighborhoods around the country have formalized the process withtool-sharing programs. Neighbors organize a process to lend each other specifictools, and establish tool libraries that loan tools to members.

The benefits aren't just economic: Poolingtools is good for the environment (fewer tools manufactured means less wastedown the road), it's a great way to get to know your neighbors, and it'shelpful to anyone who wants to keep up their property without spending a lot ofmoney for tools.

Starting a tool library is a bigger job than a neighborhood tool-sharingprogram, but it has some clear advantages. Members don't have to deal with thehassles of lending out their property. The scale can be much larger-toollibraries (http://www.toolbank.org) in Berkeley and Atlanta serve the wholecity. And, if the library is incorporated as a nonprofit (or becomes associatedwith an existing local nonprofit), donations of money and tools aretax-deductible.

Both tool-sharing programs and tool libraries require some key decisions thatyou and other organizers (and it's best to do this project with some partners)should consider before starting:

Raising money

It costs money to start and run a toollibrary, even one run by volunteers. You should be able to set up and equip anew tool library for about $2,000, experts say. Typical annual membership feesrange from $20 to $60. Some libraries charge 2% to 3% of the cost of a toolwhen it's checked out. If your organization is a nonprofit, you may want toseek funding grants from local foundations.

Building inventory

For a tool-sharing program, ask everyone tolist the tools they're willing to loan out. For a library, ask neighbors fortool donations, and purchase new tools with membership-fee funds."Seventy-five percent of our power tools we purchased new, and 100% of ourhand tools have been donated. It's been a big surprise for us-at least once amonth someone wants to donate nice tools," says Michael Froehlich, theco-founder of the West Philly Tool Library.

Once open, choose new tools to add based on what is popular, and ask membersfor suggestions. Avoid troublesome tools, such as paint sprayers that oftenneed repair and gas-powered machines that require smelly, explosive fuel.

Tool storage

In a tool-sharing program, everyone keepstheir tools at home, but a library needs a storage facility. Rent getsexpensive, so free space that's easy to get to for members is vital. Options toconsider: a member's garage, donated space from a local business, or excesscapacity at a local nonprofit.

Set the rules

Be clear on how long someone can keep atool-a week with the option to renew once or twice is common. Set penalties foroverdue tools. If a borrower breaks a neighbor's tool, they have to replace it,but tool libraries typically pay for repairs, unless there's evidence ofserious misuse. Berkeley's tool library has a good set of rules to consider asa model.

Keeping track

Once a program has more than a few dozentools, keeping on top of what's available, what's checked out, and when it'sdue becomes complicated. Off-the-shelf library database programs are relativelyeasy to modify for a tool inventory-consider a bar code set to make check-outand return a snap. For a tool-sharing program, a simple Google Docs spreadsheet(http://docs.google.com) may be all you need.

Buying insurance

A liability waiver, especially for use ofpower tools, is a good idea. A tool-sharing program probably doesn't requireliability insurance, and tool libraries have to decide if they feel morecomfortable with such coverage. Consider storefront insurance, though, in caseanyone is injured while at your location.

Once you launch a tool-lending program, you may be surprised at how quickly itcatches on. "Start very simply, and it can grow organically for whatpeople want," says Dustin Zuckerman, the founder of the Santa Rosa ToolLibrary (http://www.borrowtools.org/) in California, which expanded in twoyears from an inventory of 15 tools to more than 1,700 tools today. "Youhave the potential to create an organization that people love."

Carl Vogel, a Chicago-based freelance writer and former editor of TheNeighborhood Works magazine, has written about public policy and communityorganizing and development for more than 15 years. Besides a basic toolbox andhis beloved shop-vac, there isn't a tool he wouldn't mind borrowing rather thanowning.

Costs of Adding a Fireplace

2011-09-14T11:26:00.000-07:00

Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Rich Binsacca

Published: September 22, 2010

Installing a wood-burning, gas-burning,gel-fuel, or electric fireplace to your house costs $400 to $10,000, dependingon the type of fireplace you select.

Installing a fireplace with a brick-linedhearth and a custom mantel can easily cost $10,000 or more. It's also possibleto get a similar look for thousands of dollars less. Just shop for a ready-madeunit and watch what you spend on the fireplace surround.

If your budget is really tight, afree-standing gel-fuel or electric fireplace eliminates installation costs. Butbe aware that some bare-bones alternatives don't completely succeed inmimicking a real wood fire.

Check local building codes for possible restrictions on the types of fireplacesthat can be installed in your area.

Costs of a wood-burning fireplace

An open-hearth, wood-burning fireplace-likethe ones you see in mountain resort hotels-requires the help of a skilled,professional mason and a budget approaching

(and often exceeding) $10,000.

For an existing home, considerable renovation work is required, including afoundation to carry the weight of the firebox and chimney, and the cost of thechimney itself.

Expect to pay $7,000 to $10,000 or more.

•Cost saver tip: Go for a drywall surround and a simple, wall-mounted mantle.

Costs of a gas-burning fireplace

A fireplace unit that burns natural gas orpropane runs about $2,000 for the basic materials package. Installation andfinishing typically add $2,500.

•Cost saver tip: Switch to a simpler surround and mantle, and get a direct-ventfireplace so you don't need a chimney. Or, opt for a vent-free gas fireplacefor $400 or so. Hiring a professional to install a gas line or a connection toa propane tank adds about $1,000.

Your least-expensive option

A gel-fuel fireplace or an electricfireplace(http://www.hpba.org/fileadmin/factsheets/product/FS_ElectricFireplace.pdf)starts under $400. With a portable unit, that's the total cost since thefireplace is ready to use once you remove the packaging.

Because there's no flue or chimney, it's easy to install TVs or otherelectronic gear directly above an electric fireplace. If you include a mantelpackage, expect to pay $800 to $1,600. One perk available: sound effects thatmimic the crackle and pop of a real fire.

Ongoing costs

Estimate your energy costs by using a fuelcost comparison calculator(http://hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/fuel_cost_comparison_calculator/).Gel fuel, not included in the calculator, costs $3 per 13-ounce can, enough forthree hours.

For a wood-burning fireplace, figure on $100 to $200 a year for chimneycleaning. Gas fireplaces need an annual service check ($100 to $150) plus achimney inspection. Gel-fuel and electric fireplaces don't need regularmaintenance.

Tax credits for fireplaces

Through Dec. 31, 2010, you may qualify fora federal tax credit (http://www.fireplaces.com/Resources/Tax%20Credit.aspx)for 30% of your costs, up to $1,500, if you install a wood-burning fireplacethat's at least 75% fuel-efficient.

Rich Binsacca is the author of 12 books on various home-related topics and iscurrently a contributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines. He haswritten articles for Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record, among severalothers. He intermittently uses the wood-burning fireplace and the gas-fueledfreestanding stove that came with his current home.